November 2016
MOJAVE NATIONAL PRESERVE - ROUTE 66
At long last I was able to get back to my soul sanctuary- the desert. I spent a week in the Mojave National Preserve. I've always had a bit of a bias against the Mojave - perhaps because it's in my backyard. It's true that my favorite desert remains the Sonoran but the Mojave and Chihuahuan have pleasures of their own to give and I plan on spending much time out there in the years remaining.
I drove to Kelso Dunes to start the trip but, shockingly, I found the place a bit crowded with boondockers. I counted 8 trailers out there and so decided to check out Hole in the Wall campground and I'm glad I did. There were only 3-4 other campers all week until the weekend when the redneck maniacs and Boy Scouts descended on the place.
These first few photos are from my first couple of days. I'm still learning the ins and outs of my new camera and lost some beautiful images due to operator error but I was also pleased with some of the photos.
At long last I was able to get back to my soul sanctuary- the desert. I spent a week in the Mojave National Preserve. I've always had a bit of a bias against the Mojave - perhaps because it's in my backyard. It's true that my favorite desert remains the Sonoran but the Mojave and Chihuahuan have pleasures of their own to give and I plan on spending much time out there in the years remaining.
I drove to Kelso Dunes to start the trip but, shockingly, I found the place a bit crowded with boondockers. I counted 8 trailers out there and so decided to check out Hole in the Wall campground and I'm glad I did. There were only 3-4 other campers all week until the weekend when the redneck maniacs and Boy Scouts descended on the place.
These first few photos are from my first couple of days. I'm still learning the ins and outs of my new camera and lost some beautiful images due to operator error but I was also pleased with some of the photos.
The next day I needed gasoline. The closest place was off I-40 at Goffs Road, about 45 miles away, which costs $4.99 a gallon for regular ($5.24 for premium) but with that you get surly service and a sign that reminds you if you don't like the prices you can go elsewhere.
Good old Route 66 runs parallel to I-40 here (as it does in many other places). I decided to drive along it on the way back to the campsite and made some black and white images. I used black and white since I think it emphasizes the age and condition of the road itself as well as the many abandoned businesses and buildings that line the old "Mother Road". I'd really like to take more photos of the road that brought my grandparents to California from Nebraska, Missouri, and Colorado.
Good old Route 66 runs parallel to I-40 here (as it does in many other places). I decided to drive along it on the way back to the campsite and made some black and white images. I used black and white since I think it emphasizes the age and condition of the road itself as well as the many abandoned businesses and buildings that line the old "Mother Road". I'd really like to take more photos of the road that brought my grandparents to California from Nebraska, Missouri, and Colorado.
I drove back over to Kelso Dunes to see if the situation had changed - it hadn't but I did take a few photos and hung out at the old Depot. It was the day after the election and the vibe was weird everywhere.
I spent the rest of the week in repose or hiking. The "Rings Trail" was a short but beautiful hike that has petroglyphs and extraordinary scenery. The Barber Peak loop was closed, as were the Mitchell Caverns, but the Hole in the Wall Visitor Center was open on the weekend.
Next up I'll be camping nearby in Casper's Wilderness Park off the Ortega Highway and then heading to Anza Borrego in early December. Have a wonderful Thanksgiving.
September/October 2016
SANTIAGO CANYON
This month, after two years with my beginner camera, was when I decided to step up to a full frame Nikon.
The maxim about photography equipment not being as important as technical skill and talent will be on display for you! Haha!
Of course, I just had to run out early one morning to make some photos locally. My former motorcycle road, Santiago Canyon, is as scenic as it gets around here in The Truman Show so I drove up there. Here is a late September morning.
This month, after two years with my beginner camera, was when I decided to step up to a full frame Nikon.
The maxim about photography equipment not being as important as technical skill and talent will be on display for you! Haha!
Of course, I just had to run out early one morning to make some photos locally. My former motorcycle road, Santiago Canyon, is as scenic as it gets around here in The Truman Show so I drove up there. Here is a late September morning.
NEVADA CITY
A joy of retirement is finding time to re-establish friendships. Around 1985 I lost touch with one of the smartest and coolest guys I've ever known, Eric Flaherty. Eric grew up in San Francisco in the height of the Hippy renaissance and eventually had several careers (he is a culinary genius) and ended up owning 3 book stores in the Bay Area. He was able to retire at a fairly young age. I started looking to reconnect with him about 7 years ago and, finally, found him living in progressive and beautiful Nevada City, CA. Eric is an active member in that vibrant community and a volunteer at the local publically supported FM radio station KVMR.
Back in the day, besides partying, Eric and I shared many literary and musical interests. Eric thought it would be fun to actually co-DJ the "Red Eye" show at KVMR and so that's what we did! He turned me on to to some music (as he always did) and I hope I shared some good stuff with him. What a treat it was to see him and hang out with him. I love that guy. Here are some photos of my drive up there, Eric's "backyard" , the radio station, and the man himself.
A joy of retirement is finding time to re-establish friendships. Around 1985 I lost touch with one of the smartest and coolest guys I've ever known, Eric Flaherty. Eric grew up in San Francisco in the height of the Hippy renaissance and eventually had several careers (he is a culinary genius) and ended up owning 3 book stores in the Bay Area. He was able to retire at a fairly young age. I started looking to reconnect with him about 7 years ago and, finally, found him living in progressive and beautiful Nevada City, CA. Eric is an active member in that vibrant community and a volunteer at the local publically supported FM radio station KVMR.
Back in the day, besides partying, Eric and I shared many literary and musical interests. Eric thought it would be fun to actually co-DJ the "Red Eye" show at KVMR and so that's what we did! He turned me on to to some music (as he always did) and I hope I shared some good stuff with him. What a treat it was to see him and hang out with him. I love that guy. Here are some photos of my drive up there, Eric's "backyard" , the radio station, and the man himself.
OAK CREEK CANYON ARIZONA
About 6 months ago I made an appointment to have my little Casita travel Trailer, El Correcaminos, get some work done at "Little House Customs AZ" in Camp Verde, Arizona. I decided that I'd spend some time to in famed Oak Creek Canyon also and add some fun to the trip.
While Konrad at LHCAZ did some cool work on the trailer the camping and photography were disappointing. I was stunned by the crowds. Sedona, AZ has become the Disneyland of Red Rock Country and each trail I walked was packed with people. Moreover, at night in the campground the traffic noise was loud and even included a blaring siren at 3:00 AM one night. It wasn't exactly remote or tranquil or, frankly, relaxing. In fact, most of the trailhead parking lots are gated until 8:00AM and close before sunset. Once, after parking in a turnout and setting up my gear, a school bus bore down on me and honked. The driver rolled down the window and said, "HEY! I need this turnout to turn around! You need to move!" It was, in a word, chaotic.
Nevertheless, I did make a few photos but this area was far too touristy and crowded for my tastes. I love Arizona - but give me Ajo or Bisbee instead of Sedona or Flagstaff every time.
Here are a few photos:
About 6 months ago I made an appointment to have my little Casita travel Trailer, El Correcaminos, get some work done at "Little House Customs AZ" in Camp Verde, Arizona. I decided that I'd spend some time to in famed Oak Creek Canyon also and add some fun to the trip.
While Konrad at LHCAZ did some cool work on the trailer the camping and photography were disappointing. I was stunned by the crowds. Sedona, AZ has become the Disneyland of Red Rock Country and each trail I walked was packed with people. Moreover, at night in the campground the traffic noise was loud and even included a blaring siren at 3:00 AM one night. It wasn't exactly remote or tranquil or, frankly, relaxing. In fact, most of the trailhead parking lots are gated until 8:00AM and close before sunset. Once, after parking in a turnout and setting up my gear, a school bus bore down on me and honked. The driver rolled down the window and said, "HEY! I need this turnout to turn around! You need to move!" It was, in a word, chaotic.
Nevertheless, I did make a few photos but this area was far too touristy and crowded for my tastes. I love Arizona - but give me Ajo or Bisbee instead of Sedona or Flagstaff every time.
Here are a few photos:
September 2016
REDWOODS NATIONAL PARK & OREGON COAST
It had been quite awhile since I had camped in the remarkable Redwoods National Park and Jedediah Smith State Park. I also wanted to get back to the Oregon coast which is, in my opinion, the most scenic in the USA.
This was a solitary trip with my home away from home, "El Correcaminos". The first night I drove to Sunset State Beach near the farming community of Watsonville, CA. The campground is not on the beach and, since I had to leave early the next morning, I didn't get to the water. I was able to make a few photos of the area and it gave me an idea for a photographic essay of farmworkers...more about that in the future!
It had been quite awhile since I had camped in the remarkable Redwoods National Park and Jedediah Smith State Park. I also wanted to get back to the Oregon coast which is, in my opinion, the most scenic in the USA.
This was a solitary trip with my home away from home, "El Correcaminos". The first night I drove to Sunset State Beach near the farming community of Watsonville, CA. The campground is not on the beach and, since I had to leave early the next morning, I didn't get to the water. I was able to make a few photos of the area and it gave me an idea for a photographic essay of farmworkers...more about that in the future!
The next day I left at 5:00 AM for the long drive to Gualala Point on the North Coast. Traffic through the Bay Area wasn't good but I was able to roll in about 3:00 PM. The weather was beautiful and I made a few photos and then headed to the sack. My planning wasn't the best here as this special spot deserved more time and definitely more photography. The Gualala River is a beauty...
Next stop Crescent City! The drive from Gualala to Jedediah Smith State Park was long but oh so fine. My campsite was a few yards from the last free flowing river in California- the Smith. I walked several trails- went to the Visitor center and spent a morning - by myself no less - right on the river.
The next day I slept in. I decided to drive and spend some time by the sea. The fog was rolling in and it grew chilly. There were wild raspberries growing everywhere and I munched on them all afternoon!
I spent much of the next day in the Stout Grove of giant Redwoods which is directly across the Smith River from the campground. It wasn't too crowded although I ran into a couple who said they were irretrievably lost. Since I have experience in that area I was able to guide them back to their car.
The photo to the left is my attempt to provide some sense of scale of the mighty trees without putting a person, or God forbid, a car in the frame.
I don't think it worked...because - hey- they don't bend that way.
"They" say you have to go there to really get a sense of their size and majesty.. and "they're" right...
It was only a short drive to Harris Beach State park for the next 3 days. The Oregon State Parks are fabulous and far superior to the overpriced and overcrowded California State Parks that I'm used to visiting. This particular place is spectacular in many ways. I loved it so much that I almost considered calling myself the "Pacific Northwest Dude"...but nah...
In all sincerity... this is a place that shouldn't be missed on the southern Oregon coast.
In all sincerity... this is a place that shouldn't be missed on the southern Oregon coast.
I feel obliged to include the following photos even though they suffer from dreaded camera shake and overexposure. On the early morning drive from Gualala to the Redwoods I came around a corner to the most beautiful sight. The light was spectacular and the scenery sublime. It was cold, I was in a hurry, parked on a hill, I grabbed the camera, didn't change lenses or get out the tripod and I regret being in such a rush. My goal in the next few years is to capture these kinds of scenes on a regular basis.
I still want you to get sense of the beauty here...
I still want you to get sense of the beauty here...
So, what a trip, eh? I hope you get some idea of how marvelous it was. Next up I'm headed to see my old and dear friend Eric in the Sierra foothills northeast of Sacramento. Then, in October I'm off to the area around Sedona, Arizona for some minor modifications to my trailer and Autumn camping. I'll see if I can find some pretty spots...
August 2016
GAVIOTA STATE PARK
A busy month. Lupe went back to work but between cross country, the Pageant of the Masters and learning to drive, Lilly kept her old man out of trouble. I was, however, able get in a highly successful fishing trip with my oldest son Jordan up in Bishop Creek. We stayed at Four Jeffrey Campground and I was occupied with trying to reel them in as fast as my son instead of taking photos. It's too bad because it was quite pretty and loads of fun. I'll look back on that trip with warm memories until the end of my life...
At the end of the month, and after leaning on him for a few years, I was able to convince my long time friend Marty to join me for a few days at Gaviota. Marty is, no doubt, the funniest and most entertaining guy I know. He regaled me with stories of his acting and rock and roll singer days. We talked about our struggles as "sensitive men" and the trouble, and loves and losses over the years. I love him dearly. Always have and always will...
If you were so inclined to review the archives you'd find that I've been there many times. It is probably the least known of the "Big 3" north of Santa Barbara State Parks but it's far and away my favorite.
While El Capitan and Refugio are crawling with visitors Gaviota, which is at the point where Highway 101 heads away from the coast, is quiet. There are reasons for this...number one is that winds are hellacious nearly every night as they whip through Gaviota Pass. I've seen tents rolling end over end at astonishing speeds around the place and spending time outside if the winds are howling is nearly impossible. It is not for the weak minded or novice camper. The upside? Of course as I mentioned it's much quieter during the week and the temperatures are about 8-10 degrees higher than the neighboring beaches. While currently closed, there is a very cool pier. A brilliantly green lagoon is adjacent filled with birds. Further, there is an old magnificent train trestle, built in 1900 and modified over the years to accommodate bigger locomotives, that runs over the entrance to the actual beach itself. Lastly, this is the same beach that Jack Kerouac talks about drinking wine, having fun, and sleeping on back in the 1950's. Ah the romance of the Beats...
I've been having a bit of fun with photography as of late and was able to stitch together a black and white panorama of the pier at sundown.
A busy month. Lupe went back to work but between cross country, the Pageant of the Masters and learning to drive, Lilly kept her old man out of trouble. I was, however, able get in a highly successful fishing trip with my oldest son Jordan up in Bishop Creek. We stayed at Four Jeffrey Campground and I was occupied with trying to reel them in as fast as my son instead of taking photos. It's too bad because it was quite pretty and loads of fun. I'll look back on that trip with warm memories until the end of my life...
At the end of the month, and after leaning on him for a few years, I was able to convince my long time friend Marty to join me for a few days at Gaviota. Marty is, no doubt, the funniest and most entertaining guy I know. He regaled me with stories of his acting and rock and roll singer days. We talked about our struggles as "sensitive men" and the trouble, and loves and losses over the years. I love him dearly. Always have and always will...
If you were so inclined to review the archives you'd find that I've been there many times. It is probably the least known of the "Big 3" north of Santa Barbara State Parks but it's far and away my favorite.
While El Capitan and Refugio are crawling with visitors Gaviota, which is at the point where Highway 101 heads away from the coast, is quiet. There are reasons for this...number one is that winds are hellacious nearly every night as they whip through Gaviota Pass. I've seen tents rolling end over end at astonishing speeds around the place and spending time outside if the winds are howling is nearly impossible. It is not for the weak minded or novice camper. The upside? Of course as I mentioned it's much quieter during the week and the temperatures are about 8-10 degrees higher than the neighboring beaches. While currently closed, there is a very cool pier. A brilliantly green lagoon is adjacent filled with birds. Further, there is an old magnificent train trestle, built in 1900 and modified over the years to accommodate bigger locomotives, that runs over the entrance to the actual beach itself. Lastly, this is the same beach that Jack Kerouac talks about drinking wine, having fun, and sleeping on back in the 1950's. Ah the romance of the Beats...
I've been having a bit of fun with photography as of late and was able to stitch together a black and white panorama of the pier at sundown.
On the first evening Marty and I headed down to the beach after dinner. You see the trestle, the beach, and the man, the myth, the legend, Marty here.
The beach here is both sand and wonderful sandstone sedimentary formations. It is both a geological and geometrical delight.
The beach here is both sand and wonderful sandstone sedimentary formations. It is both a geological and geometrical delight.
Being old, retired and free to do as we damn well please, the next day Marty and I slept in then wandered down to the lagoon in the middle of the day after relaxing near the Pepper Tree.
We thought we'd go for a walk, but due to our laziness, the tide had rolled in and we only walked a short distance under the trestle and in the shale that lines the south part of the park.
Marty left a day before me so I walked alone at low tide up past Hollister Ranch and north of the Park which is inaccessible to vehicle traffic and secluded. That evening I made a few photos of the beach and sunset and the quiet Park.
July 2016
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LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK
July is mountain travel time. The wife, who is still working, has but a month to hit the road for any extended period of time and that month is July. We had originally planned an extended trip to Glacier National Park but life, as it does, grabbed us by the scruff of the neck and said, "Uh no". We made do with a fabulous week in that Northeastern California gem Lassen National Park. To avoid the monotony and angry big agriculture homemade signs along Highway 5 we took the longer and much more beautiful drive up Highway 395. |
Lupe hadn't been to this tiny jewel in Northeast California and enjoyed it immensely. We stayed at the Manzanita Lake campground. We spent the first day giving her an overview of the Park along the highway and then went for a hike to Chaos Crags which is a small buttkicker for old and portly people (me).
The next few days consisted us meandering around the Park. It is wonderful that this year, after so many dry years, the Park was full of snow at the higher elevations. The meadows are lush, the lakes still frozen, with many trails still covered in snow. The Peak was as picturesque as always. Some folks were compelled to hike the peak, a 4 to 5 hour hike, even though it was snowy in sections. A favorite story was while I was taking some photos a gentlemen came running down the Peak trail and when his wife saw him she said, "Where have you been? You said you were making a phone call while I was in the bathroom.". His answer? "I hiked the peak". The chill in the air at that point wasn't just from the elevation...
We had a brilliant time.
June 2016
Camping buddies, Kennedy on the left, Lilly on the right.
PINNACLES NATIONAL PARK
Now that I've had three children, I know how quickly the years fly by. After having two incredible boys I was blessed, in my 40's, to have a daughter or as Lilly is known, "La luz de mi vida". She and her sweet friend, Kennedy, and I ventured up to Pinnacles NP- America's newest National Park. I had been worried about the weather since the last time I was there, with Kara and Steve, the heat was in triple digits. This time the weather as PERFECT for our 3 night stay.
My Goodness did we have fun! Of course, due to my age, weight and general condition, I pulled a muscle in a knee on our first hike which restricted our walking a bit but we were able to take a nice big bite out of Pinnacles. We drove to the west side of the Park and each night had a nice dinner and watched a movie on the iPad. No fires in the Park right now but, since we were in the Casita, we substituted frozen treats for S'mores.
Now that I've had three children, I know how quickly the years fly by. After having two incredible boys I was blessed, in my 40's, to have a daughter or as Lilly is known, "La luz de mi vida". She and her sweet friend, Kennedy, and I ventured up to Pinnacles NP- America's newest National Park. I had been worried about the weather since the last time I was there, with Kara and Steve, the heat was in triple digits. This time the weather as PERFECT for our 3 night stay.
My Goodness did we have fun! Of course, due to my age, weight and general condition, I pulled a muscle in a knee on our first hike which restricted our walking a bit but we were able to take a nice big bite out of Pinnacles. We drove to the west side of the Park and each night had a nice dinner and watched a movie on the iPad. No fires in the Park right now but, since we were in the Casita, we substituted frozen treats for S'mores.
There is a beautiful hike to Bear Gulch Reservoir. K, Steve and I had done it previously, loved it, and so we decided to do it again. We saw very few people on the trail which was such a beautiful change of pace from the Utah Parks and the Grand Canyon which are now completely overrun. The main caves on this hike are closed now to protect the bat colony but the hike takes you through a variety of landscapes. On the way back the girls decided they wanted to take the High Rim trail which makes for a gorgeous loop.
Lilly is very busy this summer but we are hoping to squeeze in short trips to Sequoia and Point Mugu. I have to say that camping with her is sheer joy. She's fun and ALWAYS ready to help- half the time she reads my mind and just knows what's needed. I may be biased but she is unbelievably great!
Lupe and I are not going to Montana as planned but will spend a week in one of the finest places in the West, Lassen Volcanic National Park, in the next few weeks. Hope you enjoyed the photos.
Lupe and I are not going to Montana as planned but will spend a week in one of the finest places in the West, Lassen Volcanic National Park, in the next few weeks. Hope you enjoyed the photos.
May 2016
HUNTINGTON LIBRARY and SAN ONOFRE STATE BEACH
Lupe and I drove down one gloomy Sunday to see the "Geographies of Wonder" exhibit at the Huntington Library. The exhibit was fantastic! After seeing the visit we went to the Rose Garden and then spent some time in the Desert Garden where I took a few pictures.
Lupe and I drove down one gloomy Sunday to see the "Geographies of Wonder" exhibit at the Huntington Library. The exhibit was fantastic! After seeing the visit we went to the Rose Garden and then spent some time in the Desert Garden where I took a few pictures.
On the next day I drove down the coast a bit to camp in San Onofre State Park next to the famed Trestles surfing beach as well as the slowly being decommissioned nuclear power plant. A friend asked me if I saw the 3 eyed fish- no, but I'll admit Fukishima did cross my mind for a moment or two.
I doubt, very seriously, if I will return to this campground. Perhaps if the weather was better I'd feel differently but I doubt it. It's simply a glorified parking lot with difficult and steep access to the beach. I will say this - after the falling, stumbling, cursing, tripping, sweating walk to the beach it was private down there.
I also spent two days relaxing and took a few photos.
I doubt, very seriously, if I will return to this campground. Perhaps if the weather was better I'd feel differently but I doubt it. It's simply a glorified parking lot with difficult and steep access to the beach. I will say this - after the falling, stumbling, cursing, tripping, sweating walk to the beach it was private down there.
I also spent two days relaxing and took a few photos.
Next up is Pinnacles NP with my remarkable daughter and her friend and then Lupe and I head to Glacier!
Summertime!
Summertime!
May 2016
JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK
I had to get out to the desert again before it got too hot. Since the Chiricahua National Monument administrative personnel let me know- 10 days before I left, that they were "repaving" the campground road and my reservation was simply canceled (nice planning NPS) I decided to head out to my backyard play area, Joshua Tree National Park. It never disappoints. I brought my friend Dell out for a few days (and decided, after a couple of days, God love him, that he's never going to be an outdoorsman). We did share some laughs and since we've known each other for FORTY years reminisced about the folly of our youth and told many lies that we are both too old and forgetful to correct.
I got to spend some time with my friend PJ Finn, at his desert home near Chiriaco Summit. I enjoy his company and envy his lifestyle and desert shangri-la daily experience and, so, I simply have to go and harass him more often.
I did, of course, get on my high horse while out there by the sheer number of fixed anchors (BOLTS) on the rocks from climbers in the Park. All we hear about from the Park Service (and rightfully so!) these days is LNT (Leave No Trace) and the horrors of vandalism and yet we allow the rocks to be hammered into with steel bolts? Sorry climbers, I love you people, but start free climbing in the National Parks or find another place to auger in your hardware. It's an absurd practice and an abomination to what the Parks are all about- which is why guys like Royal Robbins and Alex Honnold are my climbing heroes...
Ok, enough ranting. Let's go to JTNP and enjoy the late season splendor...
I had to get out to the desert again before it got too hot. Since the Chiricahua National Monument administrative personnel let me know- 10 days before I left, that they were "repaving" the campground road and my reservation was simply canceled (nice planning NPS) I decided to head out to my backyard play area, Joshua Tree National Park. It never disappoints. I brought my friend Dell out for a few days (and decided, after a couple of days, God love him, that he's never going to be an outdoorsman). We did share some laughs and since we've known each other for FORTY years reminisced about the folly of our youth and told many lies that we are both too old and forgetful to correct.
I got to spend some time with my friend PJ Finn, at his desert home near Chiriaco Summit. I enjoy his company and envy his lifestyle and desert shangri-la daily experience and, so, I simply have to go and harass him more often.
I did, of course, get on my high horse while out there by the sheer number of fixed anchors (BOLTS) on the rocks from climbers in the Park. All we hear about from the Park Service (and rightfully so!) these days is LNT (Leave No Trace) and the horrors of vandalism and yet we allow the rocks to be hammered into with steel bolts? Sorry climbers, I love you people, but start free climbing in the National Parks or find another place to auger in your hardware. It's an absurd practice and an abomination to what the Parks are all about- which is why guys like Royal Robbins and Alex Honnold are my climbing heroes...
Ok, enough ranting. Let's go to JTNP and enjoy the late season splendor...
April 2016
SOUTHWESTERN UTAH
Originally I had planned on this being a "Four Corner's" trip but, after contemplating the drive from St. George to Moab, decided to stay just in the Southwest corner of the magnificent state of Utah. Since, I was "snowed out" at the end of the trip it turned out to be a smart choice. My first two nights were at Zion National Park. I'm sad and troubled to report that the Park, like Arches, is being simply overrun by people. The trails were crowded and I spoke at length to the Rangers who are seriously understaffed and overwhelmed. They told me that last year Zion had grown by a million visitors in one year and attributed it to the advertising by the always environmentally friendly state of Utah. Such a shame...I'll only be back, for any length of time, during the winter now. Nevertheless, I did have fun wandering and taking photos.
Originally I had planned on this being a "Four Corner's" trip but, after contemplating the drive from St. George to Moab, decided to stay just in the Southwest corner of the magnificent state of Utah. Since, I was "snowed out" at the end of the trip it turned out to be a smart choice. My first two nights were at Zion National Park. I'm sad and troubled to report that the Park, like Arches, is being simply overrun by people. The trails were crowded and I spoke at length to the Rangers who are seriously understaffed and overwhelmed. They told me that last year Zion had grown by a million visitors in one year and attributed it to the advertising by the always environmentally friendly state of Utah. Such a shame...I'll only be back, for any length of time, during the winter now. Nevertheless, I did have fun wandering and taking photos.
I figured I'd spend more time in SW Arizona at Bryce and in the Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument. I further figured Bryce Canyon would be packed too but I was wrong. In fact, compared to Zion it was quiet. I found a spot in Sunset Campground, hooked up the solar panels, and headed for the Canyon edge. It turned out to be a beautiful couple of days.
From Bryce I headed to Escalante Petrified Forest State Park which sits on a lake and has some nice trails in and around the National Monument.
I've seen plenty of petrified wood in my day but the rocks here were particularly colorful.
From the state park I drove on magnificent Highway 12 to Kodachrome State Park, a wonder by itself, it works as a great base camp for the many attractions of the National Monument. I had 3 days there and then planned to head to the Grand Canyon- then the wind and freezing rain came and headed straight back to Southern California. It was a glorious few days though - I think I've found a regular hangout for the next few years.
My last day consisted of a pretty wild walk in 40-50 mph winds at about 35 degrees F. I got up early the next morning, hitched up the wagon, and headed south. It was windy and snowing the higher elevations and was the beginning of a wintery storm. I'm already planning next year's trip...in May.
March 2016
RED ROCK STATE PARK and ARIZONA
The month started out with me checking out a local spot that, for some dumb reason, I'd never seen. The landscape of Red Rock Canyon is strikingly beautiful and somewhat reminiscent of Utah even though it's only about 90 miles from Los Angeles. Banjo and I headed up for a few days and had a wonderful time.
The month started out with me checking out a local spot that, for some dumb reason, I'd never seen. The landscape of Red Rock Canyon is strikingly beautiful and somewhat reminiscent of Utah even though it's only about 90 miles from Los Angeles. Banjo and I headed up for a few days and had a wonderful time.
After a few very busy months for Lupe she got a well deserved spring break. A few months ago I asked where she wanted to go and, to my surprise and delight, she said the desert! In particular, she wanted to go to Lost Dutchman State Park and Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument in Arizona. As usual, whenever we're traveling, we had a splendid time. This summer- Glacier National Park!
February 2016
HALF MOON BAY - CA COAST
This trip was scheduled to see my "sisters" and "brother" in the Bay Area and take in a few sights along the way. It was a helluva lot of fun- just too short. I also got to spend time with the coolest of the cool- my former father in law, Jack.
The campground in Half Moon Bay is ridiculously expensive and the sites are too close together (not as bad as Gaviota but close). The good news? The beach is uncrowded and stirring and it's right across the street where sister Kara works. There was a high surf advisory which made for some massive waves. Wild mustard flowers were in bloom too.
This trip was scheduled to see my "sisters" and "brother" in the Bay Area and take in a few sights along the way. It was a helluva lot of fun- just too short. I also got to spend time with the coolest of the cool- my former father in law, Jack.
The campground in Half Moon Bay is ridiculously expensive and the sites are too close together (not as bad as Gaviota but close). The good news? The beach is uncrowded and stirring and it's right across the street where sister Kara works. There was a high surf advisory which made for some massive waves. Wild mustard flowers were in bloom too.
My first afternoon I met my family for lunch in the town of Half Moon Bay proper. What a cool place. Excellent shopping, eating and walking. From there we drove to a place that Kara knew which provided a quietly magnificent walk through Redwoods. It was a stellar afternoon.
My next stop was Big Sur and I decided to stay at Plaskett Creek again. It is directly opposite Dollar Beach and I lucked out with the weather- it was drippy when I arrived but cleared up and stayed warm and sunny for the duration.
I was on the homeward stretch now and I spent two extremely relaxing days on the Rincon near Ventura of the 101. It wasn't too crowded (had no one next to me) and the sea was right out my front door.
So, now I head to the desert. Mojave National Preserve and then Lupita, Banjo and I are headed to Arizona. My April trip to Joshua Tree has been interrupted but I have a magnificent trip scheduled to Four Corners next month...
Life is damn good...
Life is damn good...
February 2016
DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK
What a fantastic trip out to Death Valley! I'd been to Death Valley before, as a kid, and more recently Lupe and I stayed at the Amargosa Inn and Furnace Creek Lodge ($470 a night- ahem). We ventured out to Scotty's Castle which is now closed for repairs after a devastating flood last October (estimates to repair are 50 million dollars). While I didn't come for the wildflowers I arrived in what the locals refer to as a "Mega Bloom". It was simply stunning and how lucky I was to be there at this gorgeous time. I stayed 2 nights in Furnace Creek at the campground and then went to the quiet part of the Park at Mesquite Springs for a sublime week.
What a fantastic trip out to Death Valley! I'd been to Death Valley before, as a kid, and more recently Lupe and I stayed at the Amargosa Inn and Furnace Creek Lodge ($470 a night- ahem). We ventured out to Scotty's Castle which is now closed for repairs after a devastating flood last October (estimates to repair are 50 million dollars). While I didn't come for the wildflowers I arrived in what the locals refer to as a "Mega Bloom". It was simply stunning and how lucky I was to be there at this gorgeous time. I stayed 2 nights in Furnace Creek at the campground and then went to the quiet part of the Park at Mesquite Springs for a sublime week.
The wildflower explosion was in thew Badwater Basin. This is an area that actually has water, of course, although it's bad (salty). The salt flats are out there as well as what's called, "The Devil's Golf Course" which is an area of solid crystalline salt formations that are hard and sharp. Death Valley is an oddity i many ways - there's really nowhere else in America that is similar.
I also visited the Ashford Mill.
I went to the old Borax Mill where Chinese workers were paid $1.30 a day. Their food and lodging were then deducted from that measly sum. It was backbreaking work for a pittance.
The Artist Road is a must.
I spent one day just relaxing out at Ubehebe Crater and Mesquite Springs Campground. I can't wait to get back there. I'm thinking November...
January 2016
ORGAN PIPE CACTUS NATIONAL MONUMENT
This was my first full month with "El Correcaminos", our tiny 17 foot fiberglass travel trailer. What a difference from my tent/camper shell days! While our little house is certainly modest, especially when compared to the metal monstrosities one sees on the roads and in the campgrounds, it feels like shangri-la to me. To have a place to stand up and be homey while it's raining, to be able to cook inside, to have a bathroom, to warm the place up (it was COLD at night in OP) and even be able to shower? It feels miraculous.
I went back to one of my favorite haunts in the Southwest for my first solo trip, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. It was raining like crazy on my drive in and the dips on Highway 85 contained fast flowing streams replete with floating desert detritus. It was, however, beautiful when I arrived at my site. I had planned on spending just a couple of days there and heading to Kofa National Wildlife Refuge but I had far too good of a time and just hung out for a week at Organ Pipe. I'll get out to Kofa soon though. I walked quite a bit and went on several scenic drives- the Ajo Mountain Road again of course, and the fun drive to Quito Baquito out the Puerto Blanco Road.
I also spent a night stargazing with the Rangers and had a couple of wonderful chats with fellow campers and the campground hosts. Some of you may know that I have a tribute to Ed Abbey (and Doug Peacock) adorning the back of my camper shell where, emblazoned on the back window, it says in large letters, "HAYDUKE LIVES!". Not a lot of people know what that means which is fine by me. My hope is it might pique someone's curiosity enough to look up character Hayduke. If they don't care to know? Screw 'em. So, you can imagine my delight when the campground hosts came and asked where Hayduke might be and when I said, "maybe in the Cabeza Prieta just up the road", they showed me their permit to travel in that amazing place. Further, on my way out of the campground one day a fellow with a dark black beard down to his navel, a patagonia vest, and a huge Samoyed dog screamed. "HAYDUKE! YES!" Ah, my brethren...
Here are some shots that I took while I was out emulating and extolling the virtues of Ed Abbey and Doug Peacock.
This was my first full month with "El Correcaminos", our tiny 17 foot fiberglass travel trailer. What a difference from my tent/camper shell days! While our little house is certainly modest, especially when compared to the metal monstrosities one sees on the roads and in the campgrounds, it feels like shangri-la to me. To have a place to stand up and be homey while it's raining, to be able to cook inside, to have a bathroom, to warm the place up (it was COLD at night in OP) and even be able to shower? It feels miraculous.
I went back to one of my favorite haunts in the Southwest for my first solo trip, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. It was raining like crazy on my drive in and the dips on Highway 85 contained fast flowing streams replete with floating desert detritus. It was, however, beautiful when I arrived at my site. I had planned on spending just a couple of days there and heading to Kofa National Wildlife Refuge but I had far too good of a time and just hung out for a week at Organ Pipe. I'll get out to Kofa soon though. I walked quite a bit and went on several scenic drives- the Ajo Mountain Road again of course, and the fun drive to Quito Baquito out the Puerto Blanco Road.
I also spent a night stargazing with the Rangers and had a couple of wonderful chats with fellow campers and the campground hosts. Some of you may know that I have a tribute to Ed Abbey (and Doug Peacock) adorning the back of my camper shell where, emblazoned on the back window, it says in large letters, "HAYDUKE LIVES!". Not a lot of people know what that means which is fine by me. My hope is it might pique someone's curiosity enough to look up character Hayduke. If they don't care to know? Screw 'em. So, you can imagine my delight when the campground hosts came and asked where Hayduke might be and when I said, "maybe in the Cabeza Prieta just up the road", they showed me their permit to travel in that amazing place. Further, on my way out of the campground one day a fellow with a dark black beard down to his navel, a patagonia vest, and a huge Samoyed dog screamed. "HAYDUKE! YES!" Ah, my brethren...
Here are some shots that I took while I was out emulating and extolling the virtues of Ed Abbey and Doug Peacock.
I hate my birthday. I don't want anyone to acknowledge it. It's simply shocking how old I've gotten (fat too but that's a different story). Nevertheless, I try to use it as an excuse to do something fun and my esposita joined me at Thornhill Broome Beach at Point Mugu State Park just this last weekend. I used to take Lilly when she was a baby and Kevin Dean there as a teenager and I have a lot of fond memories of the place. It's changed a little as several storms have virtually wiped out the northern part of the campground but we were still camping right on the beach, listening to the waves lull us to sleep, and relaxing in the sun. We brought Banjo who challenged us a bit but we really did have a marvelous weekend...if only it could have been longer.
November/December 2015
For Thanksgiving Lupe and Lilly and I decided to head to Joshua Tree as Lilly had never been there which is silly as her old man loves it so much. We went on this trip just a week before I picked up our new Casita travel trailer out in Texas. We stayed at the Best Western in Twentynine Palms and had a cracking good time. The weather was cold but we manged to go for a few hikes anyway It was serious fun for me to hang out with Lilly out there. Dell, Jordan, Lupe and now Lilly have been out there with me. Hey, Kevin! It's your turn buddy.
The following week I headed out to Rice, Texas to pick up our new trailer which we have dubbed, "El Correcaminos" (The Roadrunner). It wasn't a trip for sightseeing or taking pictures. I was on a mission. After picking up the Casita I headed to Yantis, TX to Little House Customs for a few modifications. Larry Gamble heads up the operation out there and he and his wife Debbie are kind and hospitable and they were done with my mods before noon. I headed west and drove home getting only a few hours of sleep at Walmarts and Rest Areas. Just when I arrived home I heard a jangling sound from under the Casita. I sent a pic to Larry and the Casita folks who determined that a brake spring had popped loose. I spent the next day, stressed, trying to find someone, anyone, who could fix the trailer wheel. After trying all day I found someone in Santa Fe Springs. I took it in on Monday after some serious road drama and it was fixed in less than an hour.
I then had to get it licensed which was another ordeal after AAA refused to help. I began to think getting my doctorate at USC was easier than getting my Casita ready to camp. After going to the DMV (who were much more helpful and kind than AAA) we were ready to roll! Here are a few pics from my trip to waterlogged Texas (the state that, as I write this, has just endured tornados and 12 tragic storm related deaths).
I had planned my first trip in the Casita to go see my Bay Area family but the popped brake spring and licensing issues set me back. I rescheduled that trip for February. So, our first trip was the few days before Christmas out at Anza Borrego State Park, with full hookups, at Palms Campground. Lilly, Lupe, me and 2 dogs made for a very tight fit! I wanted to test everything, learn a few lessons, and we did have a marvelous time. While there was a cold rain (especially for Anza Borrego) we were comfortably ensconced in our new little "home away from home", playing board games, and relaxing. The weather eventually cleared for us to be able to walk and barbecue and make s'mores. Other than forgetting our refrigerated foods and a little dump station silliness it was perfect!
Now the real travel begins and I'm headed out to southern Arizona in a little over a week. Happy Holidays everyone!
Now the real travel begins and I'm headed out to southern Arizona in a little over a week. Happy Holidays everyone!
October 2015
CENTRAL COAST/PINNACLES NATIONAL PARK
After a month of laying around in the wretched SoCal heat and getting older I finally hit the road. My September trip to Devil's Tower was postponed for several reasons so it felt great to be on the road again. The weather was hot but bearable and I got to camp with two of my favorite people in the world, Kara and Steve.
The first leg of the trip was to head up the coast again. October is a fine month to travel nearly anywhere and it is particularly nice near Big Sur. We are lucky in California to have such an amazing coastline. The sea was the first bit of "nature" that I can remember loving as a kid. Things might be difficult in other areas of my life but the ocean has always brought perspective.
My first night was at Refugio State Beach. I have stayed on the Rincon, at El Capitan State Beach and, of course, Gaviota, but I'd never camped at Refugio. It was beautiful and very crowded.
After a month of laying around in the wretched SoCal heat and getting older I finally hit the road. My September trip to Devil's Tower was postponed for several reasons so it felt great to be on the road again. The weather was hot but bearable and I got to camp with two of my favorite people in the world, Kara and Steve.
The first leg of the trip was to head up the coast again. October is a fine month to travel nearly anywhere and it is particularly nice near Big Sur. We are lucky in California to have such an amazing coastline. The sea was the first bit of "nature" that I can remember loving as a kid. Things might be difficult in other areas of my life but the ocean has always brought perspective.
My first night was at Refugio State Beach. I have stayed on the Rincon, at El Capitan State Beach and, of course, Gaviota, but I'd never camped at Refugio. It was beautiful and very crowded.
From Refugio I headed north to Kirk Creek Campground but stopped and took photos at one of my favorite spots in all the world- I enjoy it for many reasons - it's a gateway to the central coast, the topography is astounding and there are NO population centers around - the Gaviota Gorge Tunnel.
Kirk Creek campground is certainly on of the most "famous" campgrounds in California. It is magnificent albeit crowded and noisy. I spent a night there- explored the hills around Los Burros Road and found a great spot for boondocking. Here are some shots from Kirk Creek.
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I drove south about 7 miles to Los Burros Road and headed to a spot I'd seen that is a flat dirt area called San Martin but got distracted along the way by some young college co-eds who needed jumper cables to start their disabled SUV. It was getting hot and I decided to find another place to camp that might get an ocean breeze and that had some shade. Evidently I did good as I had 3 (count 'em 3) local residents stop by to tell me I'd found the "best spot on the coast". I'll write a blog about my encounters with the locals but, suffice it to say, I had found a gorgeous spot that had shade, a view to die for, and some beloved silence. Check out that beautiful Madrone.
After two very nice days and, after learning way more about the 25 or so people who live up there in the hills than I cared to know, I headed to Pinnacles National Park to see my family- Kara and Steve. Along the way, I had to return to the coast for a few pictures, meditation and getting my feet wet.
For me finding compatible fellow travelers has gotten harder as the years go by. Maybe, because I know life is so short, I simply choose to be around people that I truly love and avoid the jerks. It could also be that after 35 years of seeing a few people I'd like to forget in my career I've become either grumpy or more selective- I'll opt for the latter. Two people I've known since I was very young (and like me anyway) are Kara (my non-biological little sis) and her husband Steve. We met at Pinnacles. It was 96 when I arrived but our campsite had shade and a water faucet nearby. I'd just fill up my hat with water and dump it on my head- it made the heat bearable. We decided to go to on a hike the next morning to avoid the heat of the day. It was fairly crowded (it was a Saturday) but tremendously scenic- in a very Steinbeck Country way. You've read your Steinbeck, right?
Here are some shots of the beautiful country and the beautiful people. I love the pic of Kara on the lower left- Can you see that outdoorsy woman? She's cool...
Here are some shots of the beautiful country and the beautiful people. I love the pic of Kara on the lower left- Can you see that outdoorsy woman? She's cool...
It was a week that was just what the Dr. ordered...
July/August 2015
PISMO BEACH/GRAND CANYON NORTH RIM
An interesting summer. First, a trip planned to Point Mugu was canceled at the last minute since Lupe had a job interview, Then, all three of us (Lilly, Lupe and I) were able to go to Pismo Beach and Morro Bay. I had a short trip to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon which was shortened further due to an offer on my motorcycle which I did sell (see blog). This was all OK because Lilly and I were going to Great Basin NP next week. But, guess what? She's starting High School and has tryouts and orientations. Aaargh. Nevertheless, it's been a relaxing and very beautiful summer in many ways.
This first set of pics is from our little Central Coast trip. We decided to spend our first night at windy Gaviota State Beach. The idea was the women would sleep in the camper shell and me in the tent. When we opened the tent I noticed that one of the arms (legs?) 0f the tent was broken but, whatever, we soldiered on and put it up. Tied it down. Secured it in every possible manner. The wind came up later while we were playing Yahtzee inside and it collapsed. This necessitated two things- me sleeping with those two in the back of the camper shell for one night and purchasing a super cheap tent for a few nights in Pismo. While I apparently was splayed out in the camper shell Lupe and Lilly complained of being smashed and pushed and shoved all night. Hmmm...I slept quite well.
So we went to Kmart in Santa Maria and I slept in a $17 tent the rest of the trip. Banished I was...
An interesting summer. First, a trip planned to Point Mugu was canceled at the last minute since Lupe had a job interview, Then, all three of us (Lilly, Lupe and I) were able to go to Pismo Beach and Morro Bay. I had a short trip to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon which was shortened further due to an offer on my motorcycle which I did sell (see blog). This was all OK because Lilly and I were going to Great Basin NP next week. But, guess what? She's starting High School and has tryouts and orientations. Aaargh. Nevertheless, it's been a relaxing and very beautiful summer in many ways.
This first set of pics is from our little Central Coast trip. We decided to spend our first night at windy Gaviota State Beach. The idea was the women would sleep in the camper shell and me in the tent. When we opened the tent I noticed that one of the arms (legs?) 0f the tent was broken but, whatever, we soldiered on and put it up. Tied it down. Secured it in every possible manner. The wind came up later while we were playing Yahtzee inside and it collapsed. This necessitated two things- me sleeping with those two in the back of the camper shell for one night and purchasing a super cheap tent for a few nights in Pismo. While I apparently was splayed out in the camper shell Lupe and Lilly complained of being smashed and pushed and shoved all night. Hmmm...I slept quite well.
So we went to Kmart in Santa Maria and I slept in a $17 tent the rest of the trip. Banished I was...
We also went to Jalama State Beach which was packed to the gills and took a side trip to La Purisima. the mission in Lompoc. I studied the missions as a kid, of course, and thought they were cool. In my early 20's when I discovered the horror of what happened to the native people of California in those missions I decided to never go to them again. Over the years my stance on that has softened and I do think they offer a glimpse into the history of California and I am always interested in the architecture. I suppose it's a bit like visiting former concentration camps (like Manzanar)- one should go if for no other reason than to be reminded... La Purisima is not a showpiece like Santa Barbara which is why I like to go there. Oh yeah, and the animals are very cool.
We had a terrific time and then after we got home I left a few days layer for the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Is there a place on earth that I love more than the Grand Canyon? Nah...not really. I fell in love with the North Rim. It seems to have 20% of the madness and chaos of the South Rim. It's still too damn crowded but nothing like what I was used to on then other side. I had a beautiful 2 days there and then hurried home to sell my Triumph.
I went to the Lodge and was able to get a few pics of "Brighty" the famous Grand Canyon Burro now honored by sculpture. You might have guessed that I love burros by now- I even got the book and movie about this famed fella!
June 2015
GREAT BASIN NATIONAL PARK
This trip led to a spot that has been on my list for many, many years. Great Basin National Park is a quiet jewel in the park system that is, literally, in the middle of nowhere. It rises off the valley floor to Wheeler Peak at 13.065 feet. There are bustling creeks, glaciers, bristlecone pines, and alpine lakes to visit.
Ther trip started off at a place in Southern California that I've never been, Boulder Basin Campground near Idylwild in the San Jacinto Mountains. Interestingly, for all the travel I do in the Southwest there are many places in California, even Southern California, that I have not yet explored. I was able to get Dell and my son Kevin to join me for this first part of the trip. It was pretty up there and only about 90 minutes from my current home. We walked, played cribbage, and had some some nice campfire chats.
This trip led to a spot that has been on my list for many, many years. Great Basin National Park is a quiet jewel in the park system that is, literally, in the middle of nowhere. It rises off the valley floor to Wheeler Peak at 13.065 feet. There are bustling creeks, glaciers, bristlecone pines, and alpine lakes to visit.
Ther trip started off at a place in Southern California that I've never been, Boulder Basin Campground near Idylwild in the San Jacinto Mountains. Interestingly, for all the travel I do in the Southwest there are many places in California, even Southern California, that I have not yet explored. I was able to get Dell and my son Kevin to join me for this first part of the trip. It was pretty up there and only about 90 minutes from my current home. We walked, played cribbage, and had some some nice campfire chats.
We went for a short but steep half mile walk up to the old Fire Lookout but one of us couldn't make it. Since Dell wound up in the hospital with lung issues a week later we'll not tease him too much. The views were great from up there.
We left early Sunday morning and I headed out to Nevada. The drive was long and very hot. It was 115 in Baker, CA and 112 in Las Vegas. Fortunately, when I finally stopped at the wondrous Cathedral Gorge State Park it had cooled down quite a bit. I was able to walk around a bit and stretch my legs that evening. I was disappointed to only spend a night there. When it's cooler I will return to this beautiful place.
From Cathedral Gorge I headed straight to Great Basin near the tiny town of Baker, NV (thanks Mr. Smith!). I stopped to speak to the Ranger who recommended staying at the Wheeler Peak Campground since it was so hot and it was close to walks, water, and the big RVs couldn't make it up there. I found a perfect spot to camp between two meadows filled with Aspen trees and had three marvelous days. I was able to hike each day and spend a morning in the delightful Lehman Caves. I liked it so much that I decided to take Lilly there, instead of Lassen, in August. The Park is fantastic and so very quiet. It was a week of my life that I won't forget.
May 2015
CENTRAL COAST CALIFORNIA
I decided to travel a little closer to home on this trip. Since I was a wee lad I have always loved Highway 1 in California. I have done some extensive camping around Malibu, Ventura, Santa Barbara and Ojai but not so much up by Big Sur. It was time to change that and I'm glad I did. While up there I scouted some spots for future excursions and there are some isolated dispersed camping spots that I will be returning to in the fall.
I also visited Pinnacles National Park and finally got to camp for a few days with my brother in law and amigo, Ron near Big Sur. Ironically, Ron is a fellow desert rat but we found ourselves at the sea. We managed to make the best of it- ha!
The first day of the trip was a cloudy drive to Pinnacles National Park. Pinnacles is the newest National Park but has been a National Monument since Teddy Roosevelt designated it as such in 1908. It's a good reminder, since I hadn't been there before, that there is still quite a bit of California I need to explore.
I am a Steinbeck man. He was my first "favorite author" and I discovered him in my early teens and have read just about everything that he published. Pinnacles reminds me of what I call "Steinbeck Country"- central California rolling hills covered with Oaks- brown in summer and fall and emerald green in late winter and spring. When I arrived it was raining fairly steadily which put a damper on my picture taking but the next day was clean and cool and dry. Some of the best days in my life are the days after it rains...
I decided to travel a little closer to home on this trip. Since I was a wee lad I have always loved Highway 1 in California. I have done some extensive camping around Malibu, Ventura, Santa Barbara and Ojai but not so much up by Big Sur. It was time to change that and I'm glad I did. While up there I scouted some spots for future excursions and there are some isolated dispersed camping spots that I will be returning to in the fall.
I also visited Pinnacles National Park and finally got to camp for a few days with my brother in law and amigo, Ron near Big Sur. Ironically, Ron is a fellow desert rat but we found ourselves at the sea. We managed to make the best of it- ha!
The first day of the trip was a cloudy drive to Pinnacles National Park. Pinnacles is the newest National Park but has been a National Monument since Teddy Roosevelt designated it as such in 1908. It's a good reminder, since I hadn't been there before, that there is still quite a bit of California I need to explore.
I am a Steinbeck man. He was my first "favorite author" and I discovered him in my early teens and have read just about everything that he published. Pinnacles reminds me of what I call "Steinbeck Country"- central California rolling hills covered with Oaks- brown in summer and fall and emerald green in late winter and spring. When I arrived it was raining fairly steadily which put a damper on my picture taking but the next day was clean and cool and dry. Some of the best days in my life are the days after it rains...
From Pinnacles I headed west toward the sea but stopped at Arroyo Seco campground. It too was scenic although it was "ticky" and I didn't do much walking as a result. I'm not a lover of the ticks and there are four different varieties found in the Arroyo Seco area according to the campground host who related she is quite tired of them and that this year, for some reason (the drought?), they are particularly bad. I was visited by a cool Acorn Woodpecker and an inquisitive ground squirrel.
From Arroyo Seco I headed out to the coast via Nacimiento Road. I saw some potential future dispersed camping spots and I'm planning on returning there in October, finding a private bluff overlooking the sea, and planting myself for 3-4 days. I then drove south all the way to Gaviota State Beach stopping for many pictures along the way. I had a helluva good time at the San Simeon Elephant Seal Overlook. There were hundreds of those lazy, sleepy, cranky, and incredibly entertaining fatties. I love them. I could easily have spent the entire day watching.
While the central coast was foggy, wet and cold, the beach at Gaviota was perfect. Known for its' winds the two days I was there were warm and still. I spent one entire day at the beach just reading, taking pictures, playing a bit in the cold water, and bumming around. Perfect...
I left Gaviota and headed up the coast on my way to Plaskett Creek Campground and to meet Ron.
I have a warning for all potential visitors there are pernicious raccoons in this area! After spending a lovely day at Sand Dollar Beach and relaxing around the campfire solving many world problems with Ron, we retired but not before he set up his "stealth cam" which is designed to take pictures on movement- hence, any animals that would visit our campsite would be caught on camera. When I awoke I noticed that my food box was open (it's hard plastic which is clamped shut) and there were four birds inside the box. The box had been ripped open (I don't think I'm strong enough to do that) and everything that wasn't in a can had been eaten- bananas, avocados, beef jerky, cashews, almonds, granola bars, etc. Ron then got his camera which had EIGHTY FOUR pictures on it and gave us mugshots of the raccoon vandals. We also saw what we believed was a mountain lion that visited us about 1:00 AM. You can see Ron's great pics at http://tapatio.smugmug.com/Travel/Big-Sur-May-2015/. My consolation was twofold- I put my food in the cab of the truck from then on and, as soon as I got home, ordered a stealth cam. I'm looking forward to seeing who visits me in my camping spots in the future!
The weather, it turned out, was quite good- a bit cold in the shade but marvelous in the sun.
I have a warning for all potential visitors there are pernicious raccoons in this area! After spending a lovely day at Sand Dollar Beach and relaxing around the campfire solving many world problems with Ron, we retired but not before he set up his "stealth cam" which is designed to take pictures on movement- hence, any animals that would visit our campsite would be caught on camera. When I awoke I noticed that my food box was open (it's hard plastic which is clamped shut) and there were four birds inside the box. The box had been ripped open (I don't think I'm strong enough to do that) and everything that wasn't in a can had been eaten- bananas, avocados, beef jerky, cashews, almonds, granola bars, etc. Ron then got his camera which had EIGHTY FOUR pictures on it and gave us mugshots of the raccoon vandals. We also saw what we believed was a mountain lion that visited us about 1:00 AM. You can see Ron's great pics at http://tapatio.smugmug.com/Travel/Big-Sur-May-2015/. My consolation was twofold- I put my food in the cab of the truck from then on and, as soon as I got home, ordered a stealth cam. I'm looking forward to seeing who visits me in my camping spots in the future!
The weather, it turned out, was quite good- a bit cold in the shade but marvelous in the sun.
From Plaskett Creek Ron and I headed north about 10 miles to Limekiln State Park but not until we had driven the 25 or so miles to Big Sur for lunch and replenishing our larders. Afterwards, I went to the beach and took the trail to the limekilns which were built in 1887- lasted for only 3 years- and are being reclaimed by nature. What a terrific hike. Go there! Do it!
I really had a great time on this trip - enough for me to give up Utah in October and head back up there...can't wait.
I really had a great time on this trip - enough for me to give up Utah in October and head back up there...can't wait.
April 2015
LAS CRUCES AND SOUTHERN ARIZONA
The ostensible purpose of this trip was to explore neighborhoods in Las Cruces, New Mexico with Lupe with an eye toward relocating after her retirement in a few years (Hurry Lupe!). I also used it as an opportunity to visit some of my favorite spots in the Southwest and show them, live and in person, to my wife. We had a marvelous time. The desert is "peaking" in many ways at this time of year. The temperatures are heating up and with that comes the scorpions and snakes but I gave Lupe the required admonishments and off we went!
Our first night we headed out to Lost Dutchman State Park in Arizona which sits at the foot of the magnificent Superstition Mountains.
The ostensible purpose of this trip was to explore neighborhoods in Las Cruces, New Mexico with Lupe with an eye toward relocating after her retirement in a few years (Hurry Lupe!). I also used it as an opportunity to visit some of my favorite spots in the Southwest and show them, live and in person, to my wife. We had a marvelous time. The desert is "peaking" in many ways at this time of year. The temperatures are heating up and with that comes the scorpions and snakes but I gave Lupe the required admonishments and off we went!
Our first night we headed out to Lost Dutchman State Park in Arizona which sits at the foot of the magnificent Superstition Mountains.
We got out there in mid afternoon and visited the Superstition Mountain Museum and the touristy little "ghost town" of Goldfield, AZ. We settled in, after a nice grilled steak dinner at the campsite, had a beautiful campfire, and slept well despite the fairly warm temperatures.
The next morning we rose early and I took Lupe along the Apache Trail from Apache Junction to Globe. The Apache Trail is one of my favorite drives in the Southwest but it is marred, in places, by too damn many telephone lines and the Roosevelt Dam. The drive goes right by Canyon Lake and Apache Lake which seem surreal in a desert setting. It is actually "Arizona Highway 88" despite the fact that 21 miles of it are dirt. The Ocotillos were green and in full bloom, as were some great wildflowers, and Lupe enjoyed this great slice of the Sonoran desert.
From there we drove to Las Cruces. We booked a motel had a nice dinner at "La Casita Nueva" and looked at four distinct neighborhoods. We dreamed of the possibilities and I fell in love with the Baylor Canyon area which sits at the base of the magnificent Organ Mountains.
I have fallen for Las Cruces like a teenager having his first crush. The weather is sunny nearly year round, it does snow a few days a year which I have missed living in SoCal, it's situated amid the scenic splendors of the Chihuahua Desert and only a few miles from the Organ Mountains. The White Sands National Monument and the Rocky Mountains are about an hour away and the Rio Grande (when it has water- ahem) runs right through the city. The Organ mountains were recently made into a National Monument by presidential proclamation and are as remarkable as the Superstitions although much less trampled.
I was able to find time to take Lupe to the other worldly White Sands National Monument. Pictures of the monument have graced this website before but here are a few more. What an incredible place.
I have fallen for Las Cruces like a teenager having his first crush. The weather is sunny nearly year round, it does snow a few days a year which I have missed living in SoCal, it's situated amid the scenic splendors of the Chihuahua Desert and only a few miles from the Organ Mountains. The White Sands National Monument and the Rocky Mountains are about an hour away and the Rio Grande (when it has water- ahem) runs right through the city. The Organ mountains were recently made into a National Monument by presidential proclamation and are as remarkable as the Superstitions although much less trampled.
I was able to find time to take Lupe to the other worldly White Sands National Monument. Pictures of the monument have graced this website before but here are a few more. What an incredible place.
Our second night we ate at "Los Mariachis" and checked out property in old downtown section. There is a plaza there and some of the homes are on the National Registry of Historic Places. So great!
The next morning we headed to the campground at Cochise Stronghold in southeastern Arizona but stopped off at Chiricahua National Monument. I do believe Lupe was shocked at the rock formations. You can almost feel the Apache influence and it's not hard to imagine their life there. This is one of the most beautiful and underrated spots in the entire American West. I recommend Weldon Heald's fine but hard to find book, "Islands In the Sky" if you're interested in the history of the place.
Lupe and I decided, on our way out to Cochise, to stop at the Sonoran Desert Museum near Tucson and Saguaro National Park. We were in a bit of a hurry though and made a promise to each other to return soon. It is a fantastic museum. We got out to Cochise and, despite my worries otherwise, there were only two other campers (an obnoxious one though who had a noisy remote control baby drone- what the Hell?). We set up camp and, though it was late in the day, were able to complete a short hike.
The following day, sadly our last, I took Lupe to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. Organ Pipe is hard core Sonoran Arizona desert and a place that I feel simply and unreservedly at home. Not everyone feels that way about the desert. I was hopeful Lupe would like it. She did. I took her on the sublime Ajo Mountain Drive and I puffed up with joy as she repeatedly exclaimed her excitement about the utter beauty of the Ajos and the green desert landscape. This wonderful day capped off a week that I know we'll remember the rest of our lives.
I'm not necessarily enamored of my own photos unless they happen to capture a particular feeling. This last photo, to me, epitomizes the Sonoran Desert.
March 2015
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK
What a trip. What a place. It's a long haul - about 1200 miles - but well worth it and I'm already planning my next visit. Big Bend is HUGE. It includes three different types of topography and life zones, to wit: the Chihuahua desert, the Chisos Mountains and the Rio Grande. To me, this encompasses the very best of what the American Southwest has to offer in one very large National Park. I was told that I visited during the busiest time of year. OK- if this is busy, I'll take it. Compared to the throngs in Yosemite, Yellowstone and Arches it was downright secluded. There were two trail heads that I couldn't find parking and the Chisos campground was full but other than that- I felt like I was on my own.
The first night I drove to Bog Springs in Southern Arizona after visiting my friend and photographer, par excellence, PJ Finn, in Joshua Tree. I loved his setup out there literally yards from the southern border of the National Park. Moreover, after coming from Minnesota and Montana he has fallen in love with the desert. He is a man after my own heart- surely. Unfortunately, when I finally arrived at my campground, on a Monday no less, it was full except for one spot and in campgrounds they don't save the best for last. Still it was a pretty area but I went to bed early and headed for the Organ Mountains outside of of Las Cruces. Here are some shots of Bog Springs.
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK
What a trip. What a place. It's a long haul - about 1200 miles - but well worth it and I'm already planning my next visit. Big Bend is HUGE. It includes three different types of topography and life zones, to wit: the Chihuahua desert, the Chisos Mountains and the Rio Grande. To me, this encompasses the very best of what the American Southwest has to offer in one very large National Park. I was told that I visited during the busiest time of year. OK- if this is busy, I'll take it. Compared to the throngs in Yosemite, Yellowstone and Arches it was downright secluded. There were two trail heads that I couldn't find parking and the Chisos campground was full but other than that- I felt like I was on my own.
The first night I drove to Bog Springs in Southern Arizona after visiting my friend and photographer, par excellence, PJ Finn, in Joshua Tree. I loved his setup out there literally yards from the southern border of the National Park. Moreover, after coming from Minnesota and Montana he has fallen in love with the desert. He is a man after my own heart- surely. Unfortunately, when I finally arrived at my campground, on a Monday no less, it was full except for one spot and in campgrounds they don't save the best for last. Still it was a pretty area but I went to bed early and headed for the Organ Mountains outside of of Las Cruces. Here are some shots of Bog Springs.
On my way out I stopped at what I thought might be a good Mexican restaurant in the small town of Lordsburg, NM. I do believe it was the worst Mexican food I've ever had. On the upside, the service was good, the exterior of the building was cool and the train came within yards.
I was eager to see the Organ Mountains near Las Cruces. It did not disappoint. $7.00 a night for a little piece of heaven- this campground was about half full and I managed to find a spot with literally no one around.
It was 400 miles to Big Bend National Park. There is very little civilization except for the small Texas towns of Alpine, Terlingua and Marfa. Finally, after waiting 40 years, I arrived.
One of the underrated features of Big Bend are the historical sites and buildings. There are a few old ranch sites, stores, and homes that remain. They are immensely fun to explore.
I spent three days wondering around the Park. I was able to picnic at the river, hike in the desert and drive on lonely dirt roads. The Big Bend Bluebonnet and Dagger Yuccas were in bloom as were several other beautiful flowers. I saw Roadrunners, Common hawks, woodpeckers, wrens, owls, quail, and many more. It's an ornithologists dream.
I sadly left Big Bend and headed for my favorite campground in Arizona, Cochise Stronghold. Along the way I stopped for a morning at White Sands National Monument which is an astonishing and unique place. I spent two nights at Cochise relaxing, taking pictures, hiking and hanging out with fellow campers. Perhaps I should stop talking about this place so much- it was busier than I'd ever seen it but I'm going to chalk that up to Spring Break. After my luxurious days in Apache Country I headed home. This was an unforgettable trip.
January 2015
ORGAN PIPE CACTUS NATIONAL MONUMENT
After what was, for me, a lengthy hiatus, I went out to one of my favorite spots in the West, Organ Pipe Cactus NM. Organ Pipe is the "quintessence" of the Sonoran Desert. In fact, it is an "International Biosphere Reserve". http://www.nps.gov/orpi/parknews/prkit-designation.htm
This year, after many years of overly zealous "border protection", the monument was finally opened entirely. I have wanted to travel to the spring and pond of Quito Baquito for many years but could only go while being escorted by Rangers (or as Abbey called them - "Tree Fuzz"). So, I always thought, no thanks, I'd rather go alone or with my friends. This year I was finally able to visit.
As I drove to the monument it was a bit cloudy but, surprisingly, when I got to Southern Arizona, it was raining- not a hard rain- but a steady downpour. All these years and I'd never seen it rain out there. While it limited my activities it was a new and novel experience. I got to my campsite about 3:30 and just hung out in the back out of the truck listening to the rain and reading...lovely.
After what was, for me, a lengthy hiatus, I went out to one of my favorite spots in the West, Organ Pipe Cactus NM. Organ Pipe is the "quintessence" of the Sonoran Desert. In fact, it is an "International Biosphere Reserve". http://www.nps.gov/orpi/parknews/prkit-designation.htm
This year, after many years of overly zealous "border protection", the monument was finally opened entirely. I have wanted to travel to the spring and pond of Quito Baquito for many years but could only go while being escorted by Rangers (or as Abbey called them - "Tree Fuzz"). So, I always thought, no thanks, I'd rather go alone or with my friends. This year I was finally able to visit.
As I drove to the monument it was a bit cloudy but, surprisingly, when I got to Southern Arizona, it was raining- not a hard rain- but a steady downpour. All these years and I'd never seen it rain out there. While it limited my activities it was a new and novel experience. I got to my campsite about 3:30 and just hung out in the back out of the truck listening to the rain and reading...lovely.
I slept beautifully in the back of the truck as the rain lulled me off to a much needed and long slumber. I spent the next two days exploring in magnificent weather. Ironically, when I got to the "remote" Quito Baquito I found that Mexico Highway 2 runs about 100 yards to the south and I was greeted by the sound of semi trucks and traffic noise when I arrived. So much for "isolation". Still, it was a very beautiful place. Unfortunately, due to technical problems (again) I lost some very pretty pics - still, I hope you enjoy what's here. I love this place.
November 2014
JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK
Lupe and I visited one of my favorite places in the West. She hadn't been there before so it was a treat for me to "show her around the place". She also hadn't done much camping before but she took to it like a duck to water. Unfortunately, when we arrived it was very windy and chilly. So, to mitigate the cold we decided to go for a drive on the "Geology Tour Road". We were able to get out and walk around a few of my best loved spots.
Lupe and I visited one of my favorite places in the West. She hadn't been there before so it was a treat for me to "show her around the place". She also hadn't done much camping before but she took to it like a duck to water. Unfortunately, when we arrived it was very windy and chilly. So, to mitigate the cold we decided to go for a drive on the "Geology Tour Road". We were able to get out and walk around a few of my best loved spots.
That night we built a nice warm fire and relaxed. As I sat in my camping chair the silhouette of a coyote stood starkly against the moon. Pure heaven. The following day the wind had died down considerably and we managed the short hike to Arch Rock which is right out of White Tank Campground. I was taken aback by the crowds in the park. I'm used to it being fairly quiet out there but we were there on Thanksgiving week and JTNP is popular then. We visited the Cholla Garden and the Ocotillo Patch. We journeyed to Indian Cove and the Oasis Visitor Center. We also went to Keys View which, at 5000 feet, was freezing. We returned to camp - had a nice dinner - and retired knowing we'd be back soon.
October 2014
LITTLE BLAIR VALLEY - ANZA BORREGO STATE PARK
The wonders of October continued on this compact but terrific little trip. My long time friend (since college days), Dell joined me. Dell is not an outdoorsman but we're working on it. I know he immensely enjoyed this visit to cactus country and he was good company.
One of the treats about Anza Borrego is that, if you look, you can find some extremely isolated places. Last year I went on a trip to Sheep Canyon and it was anything but isolated. I saw dozens of Jeeps and even a posse of people riding horses. On this trip we saw one camper on the road on the drive in and saw one other person (an astronomer apparently- he had two huge telescopes pointed to the stars) in 3 days. That's what I'm talking about!
The first few pictures are from our campsite which was secluded and overlooked a dry lake. It was, with the exception of lots of thirsty bees, a perfect spot.
The wonders of October continued on this compact but terrific little trip. My long time friend (since college days), Dell joined me. Dell is not an outdoorsman but we're working on it. I know he immensely enjoyed this visit to cactus country and he was good company.
One of the treats about Anza Borrego is that, if you look, you can find some extremely isolated places. Last year I went on a trip to Sheep Canyon and it was anything but isolated. I saw dozens of Jeeps and even a posse of people riding horses. On this trip we saw one camper on the road on the drive in and saw one other person (an astronomer apparently- he had two huge telescopes pointed to the stars) in 3 days. That's what I'm talking about!
The first few pictures are from our campsite which was secluded and overlooked a dry lake. It was, with the exception of lots of thirsty bees, a perfect spot.
Here are two obligatory campfire pictures. Note the metal container for the fire- they are required for backcountry camping in Anza Borrego.
The short hikes in Little Blair Valley are wonderful. The first scenic short hike- literally just a quarter of an mile takes you to a former Indian Village of the Kumeyaay Tribe. Historians believe the tribe has been in the area for several thousand years (12000 BC!). The village has rocks that have "cupoles" which are indentations in the rock. Some speculate that the marks were for the purpose of letting out the evil spirits contained in the rocks. There are also some very deep morteros. They were clearly used for many hundreds, if not thousands, of years. If you stand very quietly it's not hard to imagine the busy activity of this indigenous tribe.
The chollas, always a favorite, looked especially artistic in the amber October light. There are several "cholla gardens" in the area and on this hike. There were also some perfect example of Yuccas and Agaves. The Kumeyaay, like many other indigenous peoples, roasted the sweet agave.
The chollas, always a favorite, looked especially artistic in the amber October light. There are several "cholla gardens" in the area and on this hike. There were also some perfect example of Yuccas and Agaves. The Kumeyaay, like many other indigenous peoples, roasted the sweet agave.
The next short hike, slightly longer at around a mile, takes you to some Kumeyaay pictographs and into Smuggler's canyon. There was a cool breeze blowing which made for a heavenly afternoon. On my way a tarantula decided to cross the trail just in front of me. I'm a fan of the docile spiders and love to watch them. They are so large it doesn't feel as if you're looking at an insect but rather at a true desert animal. Unfortunately, this fellow was a bit camera shy so I didn't get any good quality pictures which is too bad because he was one cool dude.
The pictographs themselves are starting to fade a bit and I worry for their future. Any human contact and the oils from our hands will discolor them. After seeing vandalism to the petroglyphs in Chaco canyon and the graffiti in Arches and Joshua Tree it elevates my concern. These are quite wondrous pictographs.
The pictographs themselves are starting to fade a bit and I worry for their future. Any human contact and the oils from our hands will discolor them. After seeing vandalism to the petroglyphs in Chaco canyon and the graffiti in Arches and Joshua Tree it elevates my concern. These are quite wondrous pictographs.
To properly celebrate October we found several "Coyote Gourds" or cucurbita foetidissima, around the dry lake. They are edible to humans in their early stages but, after they ripen, inedible due to bitter compounds. These were ripe. We found that out the hard way by experimenting and it wasn't a happy result. I believe it was about an hour before the taste finally left our palates.
This was a truly terrific trip. I know I'll be back.
October 2014
UTAH RED ROCK COUNTRY
October. A great month to travel and Utah never fails to provide awe. This was a marvelous trip that included Slickrock country, high mountain passes, and visiting some great friends.
October. A great month to travel and Utah never fails to provide awe. This was a marvelous trip that included Slickrock country, high mountain passes, and visiting some great friends.
When I left SoCal it was hot and, when I arrived in Utah, it was surprisingly hotter. I stayed the first night in a very pretty spot called Snow Canyon State Park right out of St. George. I did drive through the park that afternoon but was told I had to leave before 7:30 the next morning or I wouldn't be able to leave until 2:00 since they were running some senior cycling event down the main road of the park. Grumpy and tired, I left the next morning and headed to Arches.
The weather changed dramatically the next day. I drove to the Kolob Canyon section of Zion NP. It was too dark, unfortunately, to take very nice photos but I was, as always, blown away by the beauty of the red rock canyon. It was one of the few "quiet spots" on the trip too. Very few people were on the road and at the scenic turnouts- I enjoyed spending a couple of hours there. Don't miss it on your next trip up Interstate 15 through Utah.
On the way to Arches I stopped at one of the most beautiful spots in the United States that is not a National Park. I am convinced, if there weren't already FIVE National Parks in Utah, that Cedar Breaks assuredly would be one. Instead it is a National Monument overflowing with pulchritude. The drive out of Cedar City was filled with autumn ambiance. Enjoy these pictures.
From Cedar Breaks, I drove to Moab which has my two favorite National Parks in its' backyard, Arches NP and Canyonlands NP. I hadn't been to these parks in October and was surprised and a little sad that Arches, in particular, was more crowded than I have ever seen it. I remember hiking to Delicate Arch in 1994 and there was, what I thought, a lot of people on the trail. It was nothing. Now, there is a line of people that starts at the trail head and literally is 3 miles long all the way to the Arch itself. Edward Abbey's nightmare vision of the future has, apparently, come true. Nevertheless, I spent 3 days in the area and, of course, you can't help but be stunned by the beauty of Arches despite the crowds. I think, next year when I return, I'll spend more time in and around Canyonlands and the greater Canyonlands area as that park was not nearly as crazy with people and it is absolutely "smack you in the gut" scenic.
The first day I drove out to Klondike Bluffs and then spent the day just driving through the park and taking pictures. I did have lunch and hung out in Courthouse Wash which I've always wanted to do. The pictures are just not that good unfortunately. It was a cloudy day and the camera didn't capture the contrast of the red rock against the gray sky.
The first day I drove out to Klondike Bluffs and then spent the day just driving through the park and taking pictures. I did have lunch and hung out in Courthouse Wash which I've always wanted to do. The pictures are just not that good unfortunately. It was a cloudy day and the camera didn't capture the contrast of the red rock against the gray sky.
As I said previously, given the crowds at Arches I'm going to spend more time at Canyonlands in the next few years. There is an absurdly small campground there but other camping can be found on the nearby BLM land. There is also a labyrinth of dirt roads in and around the Park that I plan on exploring in the next few years. It is important to note that there are four districts in Canyonlands. I only spent time on this trip on the "Island in the Sky" District. As often happens when I'm traveling, being in one spot leads to creating a hunger for visiting more places in the future. I'll be in the "Maze", "River" and "Needles" Districts in the next few years. Come along and join me. Canyonlands is a gem.
On my way out of Canyonlands I stopped at one of my favorite viewpoints of the Colorado River in the West at Dead Horse Point State Park.
The river road out of Moab is one of my favorite drives in America. I only stopped for a minute to get a few pics but I'll be back for more soon. These were taken on my way to Colorado National Monument.
From Moab I headed to Fruita, CO which is the gateway to the Colorado National Monument from the western side. The Monument is saddled between Fruita and the city of Grand Junction, CO on the east. After being overwhelmed by the number of people at Arches I was pleased to be nearly alone in the Colorado National Monument. I don't really understand how a place as scenic as the Monument is so uncrowded, while just a few hours away in Arches NP humanity is crawling all over the place. I had a peaceful and relaxing afternoon in the wonder of the Rim Drive of the Colorado National Monument. I left early the next morning and was able to see a family of Bighorn Sheep. Unfortunately, the light was wrong and I didn't get any high quality pics of them, I'm told however, that if you go there and get up early you are guaranteed to see them. They are majestic animals.
I left the Monument and headed through western Colorado on my way to Vernal, UT. My best friend in High School went to college in Utah and ended up, along with his wife, becoming an educator in the town of Vernal. All these years later (about 40...ahem) I had never visited him there. I honestly never realized that it was on the Colorado Plateau nor did I know its' proximity to the High Uintah Range of the Rocky Mountains. Basically, I thought it was "oil and mining country" and I didn't quite understand how scenic this part of the West is. I knew it was close to Dinosaur National Monument but that was about it. I emailed him and he and his wonderful wife kindly invited me to visit. The drive there, over the Douglas Pass in Colorado, was spectacular.
After arriving in the pretty little town of Vernal my buddy Kevin (not to be confused with my son of the same cool name) and his wife Janice took me to the cabin they've built, with their own hands, in the High Uintahs which is only 30 minutes away from their house in town! I was thunderstruck by the beauty of the area. I was also very grateful for the hospitality shown me by Kevin and Janice who are two of the most affable and kind people you will ever meet. I have always thought Kevin's family was the finest family I've ever known and, once in a while, I get it exactly right. Kevin's father remains my favorite teacher in this lifetime. At the end of the day, after a delicious dinner in the mountains, we toured the local High School, where Kevin works, and was amazed by the facilities which are superior to anything I experienced as an educator in California. We had a fabulous day.
From Vernal I took a leisurely drive to Goblin Valley State Park. You may recall that this State Park was in the news a year or so ago when a thoughtless and apparently, stupid, visitor knocked down one of the hoodoos in the park, videotaped it, and downloaded it to YouTube. Sometimes I'm simply disgusted by the human race. It remains, of course, despite the vandalism, a fascinating and unusual place of strange beauty. I ate at a fast food joint on the way there, and suffered as a result. However, I went for a short walk but was confined to quarters after that.
Since I wasn't feeling well and I missed my wife I made an executive decision to head for home. About an hour later I felt much better but the die was cast. I thought I would camp in Zion NP on the way home instead of going south to Navajo National Monument (a great spot with FREE camping). After spending an enjoyable morning in Capitol Reef, driving Highway 24, and a gorgeous afternoon on famed Highway 12 when I arrived at Zion both campgrounds were full. Crap! I decided to just stay in a motel in Hurricane, UT where I ate at Lupita's Restaurant- I liked the name and it was muy sabroso.
If you haven't traveled Highway 12 then you're a loser- well, at least you've been missing out- it's easily one of the best roads in the USA. I probably talk a lot of crap but heed my advice here- figure out a way to take Highway 12 in Utah. Plan your entire vacation around it. You'll see splendors there and that's a promise. Next May, I'm planning a 10 day trip in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Capitol Reef National Park. I'm centering the trip around Highway 12. I'll discuss more about the "awe-inspiring" aspects of this trip and nature in general in a blog post.
September 2014
COLORADO ROCKIES
Amazing. Beautiful. Breathtaking. What a trip. The aspens are starting to turn in September and the scenery of the Colorado Rockies is world class and equal to the beauty of any mountains I've certainly ever seen.
Amazing. Beautiful. Breathtaking. What a trip. The aspens are starting to turn in September and the scenery of the Colorado Rockies is world class and equal to the beauty of any mountains I've certainly ever seen.
The trip started with monsoon conditions which added to the beauty of the drive. It also made for some rainy nights in the back of the truck. I always sleep well with the sound of rain on the roof of the camper shell. The first day drive took me through Las Vegas and then into southern Utah. I arrived at Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park in mid-afternoon. The dunes are, indeed, spectacular. This is a Utah state park that seems to be set up primarily for the dune buggy set. The campground was about 1/3 full and everyone else but me and a family from Germany (right next to me - we talked World Cup of course) had dune buggies, or quads, or other sand vehicles. It was loud but the walks out on the dunes were very pretty and quiet. I know they call them "pink" but they look more orange to me. The weather was cool and a storm was gathering when I took these pictures.
I drove the next day to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. The drive took me along I-70 which, for an interstate, is not a bad drive at all.
I met some locals who claimed that there are people who live in Montrose, CO who haven't been to the Black Canyon National Park. That would be shocking as it is only a few miles outside of town and the scenery is awesome. It is a quiet National Park. I camped in East Portal which is straight down a road that loses several thousand feet in 6 miles at a 20% grade. While the campground on the South Rim is great I particularly enjoyed sleeping close to the river.
I spent an entire day on the South Rim stopping at each turnout. The weather was perfect and the little hikes were enough to burn a few calories off my, um, "stout" frame. These magnificent views, unfortunately, really show the weakness of my camera. While these pics may give you an idea of what the Black Canyon looks like they don't do it justice. If I were you I'd just make a plan to go there. Fantastic place and immensely beautiful, you won't be disappointed. I enjoyed the Visitor Center and the Park has an interesting history.
After two wonderful days and nights at Black Canyon I drove down the road to the Uncompaghre National Forest and to Silver Lake Reservoir. The campground is extremely scenic with some nice views of the San Juan's. Unfortunately, the reservoir is very low and fishing it was next to impossible as it just wasn't accessible unless one walked for a mile through mud- I started to do that- had my sneaker get stuck in the mud and gave up. Apparently, the fishing wasn't very good anyway. I met 3 guys there who had been fishing for a week in the reservoir and nearby creeks and they had caught - nada- zilch. The theory was that all the rain, providing lots of natural food, had fouled up the fishing. The reservoir was constructed in 1964 to provide water for the local ranchers and there are cows everywhere. I stayed one night in the pretty campground and then headed for Bridge Campground out of Pagosa Springs.
The drive from Silver Jack Reservoir to Ridgway, Co was on a smooth dirt road which ascended over Owl Creek Pass. My reading materials were growing short so I stopped in a coffee shop/bookstore and picked up a good book then headed down the beautiful Highway 550 through the charming mountain town of Ouray, CO. The route then took me over the Molas Pass and the Red Mountain Pass. The Molas area was gorgeous and got several audible, "Wows" to no one in particular- it was just that pretty. This road is known as the "Million Dollar Highway"- I understood why while I was driving it. Million dollar views are around each corner.
I was hungry and looked for a taqueria in Pagosa Springs. As usual in Four Corners I had no problem finding one. Chavolo's was an excellent spot. From there I headed to Bridge Campground but when I got there it was closed for the season! Oh no! Fortunately, I met two gracious and helpful people, Tim and Linda from Angel Fire, NM who told me that I was in luck because, just up the road, there was some very beautiful camping. They guided me to one of the most scenic spots in which I ever camped. Talk about providence. Thanks you two! I stayed two fantastic days at Teal Campground which sits right on Wilson Creek Reservoir. The fishing wasn't good but who cares when you're relaxing in paradise?
After two glorious days I headed to my last stop, the Bassam Guard Station, before heading home. It ended up being a disappointment but without heading there I would not have driven the Silver Thread Byway which, to me, rivals any scenic drive in the United States. The only comparable road I can think of is Highway 1 along the Pacific coast- yep, it's that good. The highway follows the Rio Grande and then goes through the towns of Creede and Lake City. From there I went to the Curecanti National Recreation Area to Salida and then, near the town of Buena Vista, headed onto dirt county roads to Bassam.
My last night I stayed at an old US Forest service guard station. It looks cool, it seems very isolated, and, from the notes others' left, has been enjoyed by generations. My experience wasn't so great. First, the little cabin is filled with old kitchen tools and plates and pans of all sizes. Much of the cooking stuff has been blackened and is unusable. In essence, it's junk. Also, apparently, people leave food in the cabin for the enjoyment of future visitors. This food, I found out after trying to sleep, is a wonderful enticement for the mice who move in after the lights go out. You think the silence will be wonderful and then you hear a knock, knock, knock in the wall. Then the sound is over by the food, then it's over by the pots and pans and it goes on all night long. At some point I got frustrated, turned on my lantern, and saw mice running for cover. I didn't sleep all night remembering that the first big hantavirus scare was in Four Corners, created by mouse urine and feces, got paranoid as Hell, and decided to leave as soon as it was light.
This was truly a memorable trip. I took notes via a voice recorder I brought along and half of my recordings are my poor attempts to describe the miraculous scenery. I know I'll be back to the "San Juan's in September". I encourage you strongly, if you're not familiar with the mountains of Colorado, to stop what you're doing and plan a trip. Now.
I'll see you there...
I'll see you there...
August 2014
LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK
This month was a return to one of the most underrated and beautiful spots in the West, Lassen Volcanic National Park.
I was concerned about the Eiler Fire in Hat Creek and just north of Old Station, CA which are close to Lassen. I had planned a week of camping and 3 days backpacking visit with my extended family (Marty, Dana, Kara & Steve). It didn't quite work out that way. I left on a Tuesday and decided to head north on Highway 395 as it is a much better drive than boring old Highway 5. The weather was cloudy and I decided to camp north of Bridgeport, CA at Bootleg Campground across the highway from the Walker River. I arrived about 4:00 PM.
First, the campground was just OK. Ease of access to the river was not what I'd hoped and since I was tired I decided to just start dinner about 5:00. The stove, which I had so assiduously cleaned before leaving, didn't work. I assume its' malfeasance was attributable to my thorough cleaning. Lesson: Don't clean the damn stove with steel wool. OK- whatever- cold dinner but when I reached for a serving bowl I realized that my "CampSuds" liquid all purpose cleaner had exploded in the "kitchen container". A blue oozy gunk found its way on to every single dish, plate, cup, and piece of silverware. So, I spent the evening washing the gunk off. It got dark about 8:30 which was right around the time I got finished cleaning and I went to bed. For some reason, I took no pictures. I awoke early and headed to the REI in Reno, NV where I purchased a new stove ($109.00).
It was going to be fine. It was a marvelous drive and I was excited to hang out with my family member and friend, dear old Uncle Marty. I noticed on the weather app that it had been raining in Lassen and thought to myself, "that Marty sure is a campin' son of a bitch to stay out there in the rain". I was also pleased to see the rain because I knew it would be helping the firefighters. On the way, I passed Indian Creek and did get a few pics.
This month was a return to one of the most underrated and beautiful spots in the West, Lassen Volcanic National Park.
I was concerned about the Eiler Fire in Hat Creek and just north of Old Station, CA which are close to Lassen. I had planned a week of camping and 3 days backpacking visit with my extended family (Marty, Dana, Kara & Steve). It didn't quite work out that way. I left on a Tuesday and decided to head north on Highway 395 as it is a much better drive than boring old Highway 5. The weather was cloudy and I decided to camp north of Bridgeport, CA at Bootleg Campground across the highway from the Walker River. I arrived about 4:00 PM.
First, the campground was just OK. Ease of access to the river was not what I'd hoped and since I was tired I decided to just start dinner about 5:00. The stove, which I had so assiduously cleaned before leaving, didn't work. I assume its' malfeasance was attributable to my thorough cleaning. Lesson: Don't clean the damn stove with steel wool. OK- whatever- cold dinner but when I reached for a serving bowl I realized that my "CampSuds" liquid all purpose cleaner had exploded in the "kitchen container". A blue oozy gunk found its way on to every single dish, plate, cup, and piece of silverware. So, I spent the evening washing the gunk off. It got dark about 8:30 which was right around the time I got finished cleaning and I went to bed. For some reason, I took no pictures. I awoke early and headed to the REI in Reno, NV where I purchased a new stove ($109.00).
It was going to be fine. It was a marvelous drive and I was excited to hang out with my family member and friend, dear old Uncle Marty. I noticed on the weather app that it had been raining in Lassen and thought to myself, "that Marty sure is a campin' son of a bitch to stay out there in the rain". I was also pleased to see the rain because I knew it would be helping the firefighters. On the way, I passed Indian Creek and did get a few pics.
When I arrived at the Manzanita Lake Campground (a good one) I looked for the note that Marty was going to put on the Message Board. No note. That sucked but I thought, "I'll look for him". I circled every loop multiple times. I am surprised that I wasn't reported for stalking. People began to look up from their campfires with looks of WTF? I didn't care. I was on a mission. After a couple of hours of this I went to the archaic payphone and tried calling. No answer. I drove down to Summit Lake Campgrounds. No Marty. No bueno. I was a shade worried. Then, while taking out my Coleman 70 gallon Ice Chest the handle broke. My food, drinks and ice spilled and rolled down a hill on the small campground road. I took this, um, adversity, as an opportunity to practice meditation. I meditated for 30 minutes and felt much better.
The next day I drove the length of the park enjoying the views and searching for Marty and Dana. I walked the 3 mile hike into the thermal area called Bumpass Hell. I decided to drive out of the park to the burned area. My iPhone charger crapped out. I began to think that everything I owned would soon break. What is it the Buddhists say? "All things are temporary". There's wisdom in that.
I took a few pics of the burned area before I realized my phone was dying a slow yet inexorable death.
The next day I drove the length of the park enjoying the views and searching for Marty and Dana. I walked the 3 mile hike into the thermal area called Bumpass Hell. I decided to drive out of the park to the burned area. My iPhone charger crapped out. I began to think that everything I owned would soon break. What is it the Buddhists say? "All things are temporary". There's wisdom in that.
I took a few pics of the burned area before I realized my phone was dying a slow yet inexorable death.
Burned area from Eiler Fire 2014
I was able to get a text while driving from LTG (Lupe The Great) and she said she'd spoken to Kara and that Marty should be there but, regardless, they were joining me the next day. They rolled in about 10:30 AM on Friday. Dear God, we had fun. We spent the evenings around the campfire, singing songs, making s'mores and reminiscing. It was a beautiful time. We drove up to our old hangout, "Uncle Runt's" which is long since closed, hiked the Devastated Area, and picnicked at Summit Lake. We missed Marty but got a message that he had, indeed, left the Park due to the rain. We were glad he was OK (but he wasn't the tough SOB I thought he was!). Kara and Steve are the salt of the earth. On Saturday, unfortunately, I got news that required me to return home a little early and precluded me from backpacking in the nearby Caribou Wilderness. The good news is, as penance for his transgression, Marty and I are going camping together soon.
July 2014
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK/ STANLEY, ID
This was a true summer vacation trip and I was joined by Lilly and Lupe. We drove the first day to Zion NP. It was hot as usual for July. We did walk down to the Virgin River which was muddy with the monsoon season rain runoff. From there we drove through Utah and spent the night in Evanston, WY. Then we took a leisurely drive up to Grand Teton NP. It was very smoky from fires all over the West. We spent the night at the Angler's Inn in Jackson. I have strong negative feelings about Jackson. It has changed dramatically from the 1980's and is just another too touristy town like Estes Park, CO. Disappointing. From there we went to Yellowstone. We had 4 marvelous days there and stayed at the Lake Lodge Cabins. |
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The weather was perfect. Our first evening included a "Wildlife Encounter" which included a drive in the Yellowstone Touring car and a guide. We saw quite a bit of wildlife in Lamar Valley. Highlights were the pronghorn which are making a huge comeback and the ubiquitous bison. Also we saw elk, deer, black bear, Peregrine falcons, osprey, and bighorn sheep. The girls wanted to see Old Faithful and that can now be checked off the list. We then walked Geyser Hill. We spent a day driving the Park and went to Livingston, MT for dinner. We did a Lake Tour, Canyon tour and, on our way out of the Park, perfectly timed, we had a large black bear come right out in the road for our viewing pleasure. We then drove to Stanley, ID via the "Craters to Peaks" Highway. The girls loved our spot which was right on the Salmon River or as it used to be known, "The River of No Return". A highlight of trip was a raft float down the river from Stanley Outfitters. It was a marvelous trip.
June 2014
BISHOP CREEK
This month was the World Cup so I sat on my butt and watched the dang Germans win it all. I did manage a fishing and camping trip to the Sierra Nevada with a couple of buddies. We camped at Willow Campground which is near South Lake in the mountains outside Bishop, CA. The fishing in Bishop Creek and the lakes was excellent despite the horrid drought. I was able to bring back some "truchas" for my father-in-law. I took ZERO pictures to protect us from suffering the consequences of our behavior. Ha! As if we'd do anything wild these days - we got old.
This month was the World Cup so I sat on my butt and watched the dang Germans win it all. I did manage a fishing and camping trip to the Sierra Nevada with a couple of buddies. We camped at Willow Campground which is near South Lake in the mountains outside Bishop, CA. The fishing in Bishop Creek and the lakes was excellent despite the horrid drought. I was able to bring back some "truchas" for my father-in-law. I took ZERO pictures to protect us from suffering the consequences of our behavior. Ha! As if we'd do anything wild these days - we got old.
May 2014
I took two fabulous trips this month.
NEW MEXICO/COLORADO
This was a classic Southwest trip. I started at the Grand Canyon. That canyon, no matter how many times I visit, takes my breath away. I gulp for air every time. I'm sad to tell you Mather Campground is falling into disrepair. The campground is dirty and the tables are so warped as to be almost unusable. I won't be staying there again and there's really no reason one should have to be relegated to that campground. Lupe and I have stayed at the El Tovar which is pricey but sensational. However, there are several other campgrounds I scouted that are close to the south rim, less crowded, and prettier than Mather.
NEW MEXICO/COLORADO
This was a classic Southwest trip. I started at the Grand Canyon. That canyon, no matter how many times I visit, takes my breath away. I gulp for air every time. I'm sad to tell you Mather Campground is falling into disrepair. The campground is dirty and the tables are so warped as to be almost unusable. I won't be staying there again and there's really no reason one should have to be relegated to that campground. Lupe and I have stayed at the El Tovar which is pricey but sensational. However, there are several other campgrounds I scouted that are close to the south rim, less crowded, and prettier than Mather.
From there I drove to Chaco Culture Historical National Park. Nobody calls it that though. It's just Chaco Canyon. Having heard about this place for years it did not disappoint. The ancient Chacoans lived there, they think, from around 900AD to 1200 AD (it's clearly in dispute). The "ruins" are spectacular. This is a must see. It is at the end of a dirt road which is the way it ought to be. There's too damn much pavement in the West. Just so you know the term, Anasazi, which means "ancient peoples" in Navajo is no longer appropriate as it offends some of the other tribes who are actually related to those people. The proper term is Ancestral or Ancient Puebloans. Here's a link from Princeton University:
https://www.princeton.edu/~achaney/tmve/wiki100k/docs/Ancient_Pueblo_Peoples.html
The campground was full every night. There were ancient petroglyphs near the campground that have been destroyed by campers and other vandals. Shocking and sad but not surprising.
https://www.princeton.edu/~achaney/tmve/wiki100k/docs/Ancient_Pueblo_Peoples.html
The campground was full every night. There were ancient petroglyphs near the campground that have been destroyed by campers and other vandals. Shocking and sad but not surprising.
From Chaco I drove to Bandelier National Monument which has been on my list for about 40 years. The drive went through the heart of Georgia O'Keefe country in Abiquiu, NM.
I also visited several other small towns including Cuba, NM. It started to rain in Bandelier but I found a spacious, scenic spot in the campground. I immediately went to the Visitor center and prepared for the next day's hiking. Bandelier, I suppose due to the ease of access, is not as rustic as Chaco. It is, however, a terrific place to visit and climb around the ruins imagining yourself there in the busy village in about 1200 AD. You can climb the ladders and lots of the spots have metal hand rails which tarnishes the ambiance a bit but I suppose it makes tourists feel safer.
I also visited several other small towns including Cuba, NM. It started to rain in Bandelier but I found a spacious, scenic spot in the campground. I immediately went to the Visitor center and prepared for the next day's hiking. Bandelier, I suppose due to the ease of access, is not as rustic as Chaco. It is, however, a terrific place to visit and climb around the ruins imagining yourself there in the busy village in about 1200 AD. You can climb the ladders and lots of the spots have metal hand rails which tarnishes the ambiance a bit but I suppose it makes tourists feel safer.
It rained like Hell in the evening and I was confined to quarters. The next morning I headed toward Los Alamos but decided, in a serendipitous moment, to go down to Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument. It was, as we kids of the '60's like to say, "trippy" beyond words. There is a 3 mile hike through a slot canyon to one of the most "unearthly" spots in the Southwest. It rained on the walk which kept me cool. The last few yards are straight up to the top. Be prepared to sweat and clamber up some rocks despite it's relatively short distance. It will be well worth the effort. If you go here, and you should, it's a top spot in the West and I guarantee it will blow your mind.
Los Alamos was a disappointment. I'm a WWII historian but if you're looking for WWII era Manhattan Project history you won't find it here. The Bradbury Museum is nothing special. I knew the town looked sparse for history on the internet but since they are still doing "classified" science up there at the National Laboratory it's a dull place to visit. Not only that but I stayed at the Motel 6 and was eaten, alive, by bed bugs. It was disgusting. After camping for a week it's nice to get a shower and a bed but next time I'll skip the crappy motel and sleep in the camper shell. I even had to drive 20 miles to find a good New Mexican restaurant but was it ever good! New Mexican cuisine is delicious and typically restaurants have sopapillas and pozole. On the drive there I did go up in the mountains to view the Truchas Peaks. I saw a cool adobe church and visited the Santuario de Chimayo famous for its' sacred healing dirt.
http://www.elsantuariodechimayo.us/
Since I ached everywhere, I spread that dirt all over my body. It didn't seem to help but maybe that's because I'm not a believer in any of that hokum.
http://www.elsantuariodechimayo.us/
Since I ached everywhere, I spread that dirt all over my body. It didn't seem to help but maybe that's because I'm not a believer in any of that hokum.
Los Alamos does have a nice park and a statue of one of my heroes and kindred spirit Robert Oppenheimer.
From Los Alamos I headed to Pueblo, CO via Taos, NM. The drive was a little harrowing as you ascend the steep La Veta pass where it was snowing and there was low visibility for several miles. I felt sorry for the numerous bikers who were stranded up there in the snow. I visited with Uncle Bill, Aunt Lisa and cousins, Staci and Jill for a couple of hours and spent the night in downtown Pueblo. From there I went to the Great Sand Dunes National Park which was, for me, uncomfortably crowded. It is, indeed, a remarkable place and the dunes, framed by the Sangre De Cristos, are a sight to behold. I went for a short hike but, feeling the ill effects of being bitten by 80 bed bugs, retired early and headed for Navajo country early the next morning.
Navajo National Monument. Free camping and million dollar views. I made the obligatory stop at the Four Corners Monument and then motored right into paradise.
CALAVERAS BIG TREES STATE PARK
In early May I sallied up to the Calaveras Big Tress State Park to camp with my hermano Steve. The drive was striking and fields were in bloom with the California State Flower the Golden Poppy. It was cold but we dealt with it by hiking through the Big Trees. What a brilliant place! I couldn't believe, after living in California my entire life, that I'd never been there. It was Steve's suggestion and it was an inspired one.
In early May I sallied up to the Calaveras Big Tress State Park to camp with my hermano Steve. The drive was striking and fields were in bloom with the California State Flower the Golden Poppy. It was cold but we dealt with it by hiking through the Big Trees. What a brilliant place! I couldn't believe, after living in California my entire life, that I'd never been there. It was Steve's suggestion and it was an inspired one.
April 2014
KAUAI
Lupe and I decided to bite the bullet, throw caution to the wind, finally get that honeymoon in, and go to Kauai. We stayed on the quiet western side of the island at the Waimea Plantation Cottages. Heaven on earth to us. The pictures of the beach below were footsteps from our little cottage and many are of Waimea Canyon which was just a few miles down the road.
Lupe and I decided to bite the bullet, throw caution to the wind, finally get that honeymoon in, and go to Kauai. We stayed on the quiet western side of the island at the Waimea Plantation Cottages. Heaven on earth to us. The pictures of the beach below were footsteps from our little cottage and many are of Waimea Canyon which was just a few miles down the road.
We did drive over to the north side of the island and spent a bit of time at the beach.
March 2014
JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK
In March I went camping in one of my favorite spots on earth, Joshua Tree (JTNP) with my incredible son, Jordan. We drove the geology tour road, listened to great tunes, hiked and had some deep talks over the campfire. He's a great man and I'm proud to call him my son. Below he is demonstrating his super human strength. I was a little concerned that his tent wasn't large enough (not).
In March I went camping in one of my favorite spots on earth, Joshua Tree (JTNP) with my incredible son, Jordan. We drove the geology tour road, listened to great tunes, hiked and had some deep talks over the campfire. He's a great man and I'm proud to call him my son. Below he is demonstrating his super human strength. I was a little concerned that his tent wasn't large enough (not).
SOUTHERN ARIZONA/NEW MEXICO/GUADALUPE MTNS.
I had another excellent trip to the Southwest in March. My first night was in Lost Dutchman State Park which has become a favorite haunt right at the base of the Superstition Mountains. The famed Apache Trail starts here and is one of the well known, most scenic, drives in the Southwest and deservedly so.
I had another excellent trip to the Southwest in March. My first night was in Lost Dutchman State Park which has become a favorite haunt right at the base of the Superstition Mountains. The famed Apache Trail starts here and is one of the well known, most scenic, drives in the Southwest and deservedly so.
I left the next morning and went to Silver City, NM. The restaurant, Jalisco Cafe, was sadly closed due to renovation. I had a tasty lunch of green chile verde at a newly opened Mexican restaurant, El Gallo Pinto, and met some wonderful people who asked that I stay in town a bit longer to tell them of my travels. New Mexico is a friendly, hospitable state. The weather turned dark and brooding as I drove the City of Rocks State Park where it rained and the wind blew fiercely across the llano.
In an attempt to find warmer weather I headed for the west Texas town of El Paso and then to Guadalupe Mountains National Park. The drive was warmer but it was 34 degrees when I arrived in Guadalupe. Hoarfrost was covering everything and the wind was frigid. I decided the only antidote was to walk and so I went on a couple of short hikes near the campground and visitor center. The weather warmed up to the 50's in the late afternoon. Guadalupe NP is stunning, epitomizes the Old West, and I'll be back soon.
The next morning I got up early and drove to Frijoles Canyon and headed for Carlsbad Caverns. My camera took terrible pictures inside the Great Room which was too bad as it is simply one of the most amazing places I have ever been. It's a must and I hoping to take Lilly and Lupe there next spring. After spending a few hours in the caverns I drove the Park drive which goes through typical Chihuahuan desert topography. It was not the Sonoran desert but was still fascinating and striking in its' own way.
From Carlsbad I drove to Roswell which is the home of the alleged UFO landing in 1947. It's a nice little town and has a pretty corny UFO Museum. I got a room that night and relaxed.
The next day I drove out to Fort Sumner in "Billy the Kid" territory and where he was killed by Sheriff Pat Garret and is buried. Billy is a folk hero to many in this area and was, apparently, beloved by the local Mexican community.
The next day I drove out to Fort Sumner in "Billy the Kid" territory and where he was killed by Sheriff Pat Garret and is buried. Billy is a folk hero to many in this area and was, apparently, beloved by the local Mexican community.
I also visited the relatively new Bosque Redondo Memorial. It is one of the most heartbreaking stories of the West. I spent several hours there and visited with the museum personnel. I was told that many Navajo still won't visit as the cultural memory of the historical nightmare is still too immense for them to bear. The pictures hardly do it justice. The feeling of sadness and mourning of the place is simply in the air. The gray day, the rain, and even the sound of the nearby Pecos River added to the natural melancholy of the memorial.
http://www.bosqueredondomemorial.com/
http://www.bosqueredondomemorial.com/
The Bosque Redondo Memorial at Fort Sumner State Monument solemnly remembers the dark days of suffering from 1863 to 1868 when the U.S. Military persecuted and imprisoned 9,500 Navajo (the Diné) and 500 Mescalero Apache (the N’de) on a reservation known as Bosque Redondo at Fort Sumner, New Mexico— an area that encompassed 1,600 square miles (over one million acres).
After leaving Bosque Redondo I ventured out to what turned out to be a highlight of this trip and a place I know I will visit again and again. The White Sands National Monument near Alamogordo, NM.
http://www.nps.gov/whsa/index.htm
This is the world's largest gypsum dune field. It is indescribably scenic and, although the US Govt. has a Missile Range nearby, it feels like you're on an entirely different planet. It reminded me very much of snow and people do, indeed, use "snow-play equipment" to sled down the hills. You have to see this place to believe it.
http://www.nps.gov/whsa/index.htm
This is the world's largest gypsum dune field. It is indescribably scenic and, although the US Govt. has a Missile Range nearby, it feels like you're on an entirely different planet. It reminded me very much of snow and people do, indeed, use "snow-play equipment" to sled down the hills. You have to see this place to believe it.
I was off to the border. I drove to Columbus, NM to stay at Pancho Villa State Park. Columbus is a border town and the site of the last land invasion by foreign forces on the American mainland.
http://www.desertusa.com/desert-people/pancho-villa.html
It rained and was quite windy and the museum was closed. However, when the curator saw me going back to my car he opened the door to the museum and invited me in. We spent two delightful hours, just the two of us, discussing the "raid" by the Villistas in March of 1916. There are a variety of reasons people believe about why the raid actually occurred but the truth went to the grave with Pancho in 1923. Personally, I think it was to generate more popular support by the Mexicans for Villa as his popularity had been declining in the previous years. Regardless, it's a great place for some wonderful history. A good book about the raid is. "The General and the Jaguar: Pershing's Hunt for Pancho Villa", by Eileen Welsome.
http://www.desertusa.com/desert-people/pancho-villa.html
It rained and was quite windy and the museum was closed. However, when the curator saw me going back to my car he opened the door to the museum and invited me in. We spent two delightful hours, just the two of us, discussing the "raid" by the Villistas in March of 1916. There are a variety of reasons people believe about why the raid actually occurred but the truth went to the grave with Pancho in 1923. Personally, I think it was to generate more popular support by the Mexicans for Villa as his popularity had been declining in the previous years. Regardless, it's a great place for some wonderful history. A good book about the raid is. "The General and the Jaguar: Pershing's Hunt for Pancho Villa", by Eileen Welsome.
That night I spent a cozy night in the rain, thunder and lightening. I arose and went to Fort Bowie, AZ on my way to one of my favorite parts of the Southwest, Apache Country, in Southeastern Arizona. I ran into some wild burros on the drive. I visited awe-inspiring Chiricahua National Monument and got into a heated discussion with the Rangers about their ridiculous camping regulations and then drove to Cochise Stronghold in the Dragoon Mountains for two days of hiking and luxurious camping. Cochise, a chief of the Chiricahua Apaches, had indeed used this slice of paradise as his stronghold. I had recently been to these places in the autumn and I was so taken with them that I had to return. I'll be back next year and, I assume, every year the rest of my life. I hope you enjoy the montage.
Winter 2013-2014
I spent the winter planning. I did spend a week in Organ Pipe National Monument and a few days with Banjo, the dog in Little Blair Valley, Anza Borrego State Park (where the 21 degree weather sent us barreling back home). I will be heading out there this winter and will post some pictures. It is a favorite place. This winter I will be spending several days in the Monument itself and in the nearby Cabeza Prieta where my man Edward Abbey is buried in some remote location with a tombstone etched with his epitaph, "no comment".
November 2013
ANZA BORREGO STATE PARK CA
Dell and I went to Anza Borrego. The temps were in the 90s - ahhh...
Dell and I went to Anza Borrego. The temps were in the 90s - ahhh...
October 2013
SOUTHERN ARIZONA
The Autumn Southwest trip. It was powerful and, as Ray Hudson would say, "magisterial". I started out the first night at a gem of a campground about 60 miles northwest of Wickenburg, AZ called "Burro Creek' on BLM land. I was alone in the campground until someone else came in late that night. Talk about solitude! I went down to the creek and relaxed. The afternoon was spectacular and dozens of bats flew overhead just as the sun set. Surrounding the campground are 10 foot tall ocotillos, saguaros, cholla, mesquite and palo verde. The next morning I went on search of burros. I found a few but they were too skittish to really get good pictures. This was the trip that inspired my Saguaro poem.
The Autumn Southwest trip. It was powerful and, as Ray Hudson would say, "magisterial". I started out the first night at a gem of a campground about 60 miles northwest of Wickenburg, AZ called "Burro Creek' on BLM land. I was alone in the campground until someone else came in late that night. Talk about solitude! I went down to the creek and relaxed. The afternoon was spectacular and dozens of bats flew overhead just as the sun set. Surrounding the campground are 10 foot tall ocotillos, saguaros, cholla, mesquite and palo verde. The next morning I went on search of burros. I found a few but they were too skittish to really get good pictures. This was the trip that inspired my Saguaro poem.
Next stop was the Heard Museum in Phoenix. The Museum is known for its' extraordinary Southwestern Native American History and Art. The Hopi Katsina collection alone is worth the visit. The museum is so cool that they devote one entire room to chiles. Another exhibit was devoted solely to the early work of Georgia O'Keefe. Ha! they must have known I was coming. I spent half a day and wanted more.
Next up was my first trip to Lost Dutchman State Park. I met another fellow, exactly my age, who had recently retired from the Forest Service and we hung out most of the day on the Apache Trail from Apache Junction all the way to Roosevelt Dam. His wife was still working too. We had a cup of coffee in honor of wonderful spouses- laughed a bit and shared the "joys" of working in bureaucracies that were in the public eye. He was a grand companion. I'll probably write a blog about some the kind of crazy Southwest fools like myself that I tend to meet on the road in the West. I've been lucky to meet kindred souls out there.
From the Superstitions I drove to Saguaro National Park near Tucson. I spent a fantastic day at the Desrt Museum. They have huge Cactus Garden and I saw the "Free Flying Raptor Show". Remarkable. I then made made my way to Chiricahua and found my heaven in Cochise Stronghold in the Dragoon Mountains.
September 2013
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
I took the Triumph Thunderbird on a huge loop around California. Going up HWY 395 all the way to Lassen Volcanic National Park cutting over to the coast to Eureka and heading south. Along the way I crossed the Golden Gate and visited with my Bay Area family and saw the sights only available on a motorcycle. I don't particularly enjoy taking pictures on motorcycle trips because to do that involves stopping the bike, taking off your gloves and helmet, and it's a bit of a hassle. Nevertheless, I did get some OK shots.
I took the Triumph Thunderbird on a huge loop around California. Going up HWY 395 all the way to Lassen Volcanic National Park cutting over to the coast to Eureka and heading south. Along the way I crossed the Golden Gate and visited with my Bay Area family and saw the sights only available on a motorcycle. I don't particularly enjoy taking pictures on motorcycle trips because to do that involves stopping the bike, taking off your gloves and helmet, and it's a bit of a hassle. Nevertheless, I did get some OK shots.
August 2013
Banjo and I made our way up to the Southern Cascade Range for 5 days. We visited Lassen and spent a few wonderful days in the Lassen Forest. Banjo was still a pup and he didn't like it when I fished. He cried and whimpered and pissed off every other fisherman within 200 yards. He did, however develop a taste for trout and road trips. He loves them. The other thing I learned is that wherever a horse craps that's the first place he'll go to and then he literally rolls on his back just soaking up the bacteria and stink. Mmmmm...good!
July 2013
NEW MEXICO, COLORADO, UTAH
Lupe and I made a large loop of the Southwest so that we could return to Santa Fe and visit the Pueblo, CO Hubbard family. I also wanted to take Lupe to the Utah country I love so well.
Lupe and I made a large loop of the Southwest so that we could return to Santa Fe and visit the Pueblo, CO Hubbard family. I also wanted to take Lupe to the Utah country I love so well.
This was not a camping trip. Instead we stayed at motels and hotels and inns. We were able to secure a cool room at historic La Fonda on the Plaza in Santa Fe. Is there another town that matches Santa Fe for Southwest history, art and architecture? Maybe Taos? Santa Fe is a treasure even after all these years of development.
We also visited Estes Park and then Rocky Mountain National Park.
The drive to Red Rock country was soulful as always and it was fun for me to see Lupe fall in love with the canyons and rivers and slick-rock.
June 2013
NEVADA, IDAHO, WYOMING, OREGON
This was the first long trip I took after I got my truck and camper shell. It was stellar. I hadn't been to Yellowstone in 25 years. I started by heading up 395 and spent time at Manzanar the internment camp for Japanese Americans in WWII. It is well worth the visit these days. There was just a lone marker on the highway for many years but now it has become a proper memorial. I was deeply affected by my visit. Then I was on my way to the Ruby Mountains outside of Elko, NV which was my grandfather's favorite place on earth. Lamoille Canyon had changed so much and was told that it had been "washed out" 3 times since I'd been there last- in 1971.
This was the first long trip I took after I got my truck and camper shell. It was stellar. I hadn't been to Yellowstone in 25 years. I started by heading up 395 and spent time at Manzanar the internment camp for Japanese Americans in WWII. It is well worth the visit these days. There was just a lone marker on the highway for many years but now it has become a proper memorial. I was deeply affected by my visit. Then I was on my way to the Ruby Mountains outside of Elko, NV which was my grandfather's favorite place on earth. Lamoille Canyon had changed so much and was told that it had been "washed out" 3 times since I'd been there last- in 1971.
I made two Idaho visits on this trip. Once on the way and then after leaving Yellowstone and heading west. I discovered Stanley and ended up back there again in the summer of 2014.
It was cold when I got to the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone. High's were in the low 50s and it snowed two days. I bundled up and got out there into it!
I wrapped up the trip by heading to the Bonneville campground in Idaho for hot springs, going to the Antler's Guard Station in the Wallowa-Whitman NF in Oregon, stunning Crater Lake (more snow- a lot more snow), then finally coming down the coast to home.
I have pictures of other visits from other years and may, in time, put those on the site.